ignition short?

[Anonymous]

It's an 82 GS 650 E. Got my carb and gas tank problems sorted. Electrical problems remain. When my brother gave the bike to me, there was a hot wire running from coil to coil to battery + terminal. bypasses the ignition switch, allowing the thing to run. Unfortunately, it only runs for about 20 minutes until it's nice and hot, then it dies and won't start until it cools all the way down. I've replaced the stator and coils on the advice of friends, but it continues. I know there's a breakdown in electrical communication somewhere, but where? Without taking it to a shop, I mean.
Thanks,
J. Daniel

[earlfor]

Re: ignition short?

The most direct way to handle the problem is to get a wiring diagram for the bike or buy a clymer manual which will have a wiring diagram. Then take a multimeter and check each leg of the ignition circuit for continuity and resistance. You will find the problem for sure.

Earl

It's an 82 GS 650 E. Got my carb and gas tank problems sorted. Electrical problems remain. When my brother gave the bike to me, there was a hot wire running from coil to coil to battery + terminal. bypasses the ignition switch, allowing the thing to run. Unfortunately, it only runs for about 20 minutes until it's nice and hot, then it dies and won't start until it cools all the way down. I've replaced the stator and coils on the advice of friends, but it continues. I know there's a breakdown in electrical communication somewhere, but where? Without taking it to a shop, I mean.
Thanks,
J. Daniel

[Anonymous]

same problem

Thanks for responding. I've noted your responses to others and you seem more than adequately knowledgable. That's something I'm not.
I have a Clymers, but they don't list an "E" model's wiring diagram.
But even if they did, I don't know that I'd be able to check continuity and whatnot, as you say. I've got the multimeter and ? when given specific directions ? can use it. But I know very little about how the electrical system works.
Actually, it looks like a page or two of the Clymers is missing. Maybe I should just get a new one. This one's been around and is more than slightly beat up.
Anyway, thanks. Anything specific on how to check continuity and resistance ? and what I'm looking for ? would be helpful.
J. Daniel

[Anonymous]

I will have to do some digging, but I may be able to scan mine and email it to you. I'll check for an E diagram. I have the Clymer manual for the 650.
If you want, that is.

[Anonymous]

yes, I want!

Thanks, TankMan,
Yes, that page is definitely not in my book, and it would be much appreciated. I'm new to this GSResources thing: Do I just check my regular e-mail, or is there a special box for me somewhere here on the website? Sorry to sound helpless, but the computer thing isn't my specialty.
Anyway, the scan would be very helpful. I assume you could do it in color? Or are the wires shown in the wiring diagrams not the actual colors?
Thanks again,
J. Daniel

[Anonymous]

You can click the PM button at the bottem and send me your email address that way.

It has been a couple of days since I have looked at any of my diagrams, but I believe that they are black, but my scanner does do color anyway. It will be later tonight before I can get back with you on this. I have to work on my boat first, then my 850, then your manual. I can do that after dark.

[Billy Ricks]

There really shouldn't be anything wrong with having them hooked directly to the battery, it's ground that triggers the coils anyway. But they should be connected to an orange wire from the ignition switch or an orange with white tracer from the fuse block would be better so it is switched power. Make sure you solder your splices rather than just twisting them together.

[earlfor]

Re: same problem

If I had a 650 book/diagram, I would be happy to list the circuits and color codes for you to check. Unfortunately, without them I think I could be more confusing than helpful. Most bikes circuitry is pretty much the same, but that wont do. I know there is someone with a 650 and a wiring diagram that matches your bike on the board. I think its better if someone can give you precise help.

Earl

Thanks for responding. I've noted your responses to others and you seem more than adequately knowledgable. That's something I'm not.
I have a Clymers, but they don't list an "E" model's wiring diagram.
But even if they did, I don't know that I'd be able to check continuity and whatnot, as you say. I've got the multimeter and ? when given specific directions ? can use it. But I know very little about how the electrical system works.
Actually, it looks like a page or two of the Clymers is missing. Maybe I should just get a new one. This one's been around and is more than slightly beat up.
Anyway, thanks. Anything specific on how to check continuity and resistance ? and what I'm looking for ? would be helpful.
J. Daniel

[Anonymous]

No mo electrical problems...I think

OK, with advice from Earl (both to me and in earlier responses to others) and with a wiring diagram from TankMan in Nashville, I cleaned some connections, tossed an old coil and got a new one, checked the igniter and the coils and the signal generator and I've got spark at all four plugs! That hasn't happened without the hotwire from coil to coil to battery(+) in more than four years, three of which the thing was parked.
The problem is, even with good spark, the thing won't start.
I filled the gas line and float bowls with gas, shot starting fluid into the carbs and hit the starter button (which I also repaired, so it now works) and the gas spit out through the K&Ns, it backfired, the fuses got hot (but didn't go bad) and it didn't start. That continued until the battery was dead. I'm stubborn.
So I recharged the battery, rechecked the plugs for spark (it's good) and tried again.
I even hooked the jump wire back to coils and battery, and the beast won't fire up.
So what's my problem? The carbs are newly cleaned, rejetted (Stage 3) and shouldn't be a problem. What's wrong? Or at least, what can I check?
Thanks in advance.
J. Daniel