Re-installing cleaned carbs

[Guest]

I'm wondering if there's a short cut I'm missing. I'm ready to reinstall the carbs on my 650G. (I considered installing pods but decided against it.) Its an incredibly tight fit with the airbox in place, even pushed back as far as it will go. I don't want to damage the new boots I installed.

Although I removed the carbs from the left side leaving the boots attached to the head, then took them off after, it seems that it would be easier to mount the boots on the carbs then install the whole package, but there does not seem to be enough room. (Also, I'm re-installing the cables now before installation, as it came off that way.)

Can't figure out how they did it at the factory on a time-critical assembly line-does anyone have a trick for this, or is it just wiggle and fiddle until they seat in place?

[ryonker]

I've had mine off dozens of times and I just "wiggle and fiddle".

[Dave8338]

Get a can of silicone spray lube and hose down all the rubbers (inside first) slide the carbs in with a good "booty shake or two" and once things are together and tightened down...hit the outsides with the spray lube.

[spyug]

I'm not familiar with your bike but if it is twin carb like my XS650 then I might be able to comment. On all these UJMs carb fitting is a tight thing and entails a lot of fiddling and cussing.

The easiest method I found was to take off the left side manifold (boot?)and leave the right one connected. Put a little oil or vaseline jelly in the throat of the manifold and push the right side carb in place. Carefully push the leftside manifold into position and pop the carb on then insert bolts from manifold to head. Sometimes it takes a bit of muscle to get the carbs to pop into the manifolds and for a bit of leverage I use a long shafted screw driver. Tape over the end, position it on the top of the crankcase and push forward against the carb body

To attach the airbox (pods are actually easier) try and heat up the plastic tubes to get them flexible. I use a paint removing heat gun for this but watch you don't over heat as they'll quickly melt and distort. A smear of vaseline again will make them easy to pop onto the carbs.

I've had these on and off so many times in the last few years I can do it in my sleep and it takes no more than 15 minutes (with a fair amount of cussing).

I find the four carbs on the GS to be easier as I can get the airbox back far enough when I pull the battery. Seems like there is lots of room to manoeuver and the carbs go in and out fairly easily and with less cussing

Hope this helps a wee bit.

Cheers,
Spyug

[GSJim69]

I prefer to use dish washing liquid/water mixture as the lubricant. It dries so the boot does not slip off of the carb. I used a silicone lubricant once and the boot slipped off of the carb because it stayed slippery.

[Flaggo60]

Ok, thanks, folks. I just wondered if there was a simple trick that I was missing, as I can't imagine being on an assembly line and doing that to every bike that rolls by. The lube idea is great, thanks, I'm using that. Also, checking the manual it did say to remove the carbs from the boots in place, and that reassembly was the reverse of that. So wiggle and fiddle it is.

[rockford]

Bonzai

Ok, thanks, folks. I just wondered if there was a simple trick that I was missing, as I can't imagine being on an assembly line and doing that to every bike that rolls by. The lube idea is great, thanks, I'm using that. Also, checking the manual it did say to remove the carbs from the boots in place, and that reassembly was the reverse of that. So wiggle and fiddle it is.

It's a widely known fact that the vast majority of the workers who held that position committed hari-kari.

When you "wiggle and fiddle", don't forget to cuss; I'm convinced it helps.

[gadang]

I did a bunch of wiggle and fiddle....I just used my sweat and tears for lube and got it back together. :P

[skidMarkNZ]

drop the engine off both its back mounts and front mount completely, but leave the two on the lower cradle frame rails (just loosen them) tilt engine forward slightly....

taadaaa...

takes a little longer, but means ya wont stuff ya intake boots, hope that helps

thats how the wouldve done it at factory....carbs in tilt engine back...mount up.

it will take longer because obviously you have to take mounts off.... at factory they didnt have to....

you should not need to undo the shaft or the cv joint boots, it should stretch enough with its ribbings to allow for this.

Cheers: Mark.

[Steve]

I would think that installing the intake boots before the carbs is rather mandatory. No other way to tighten those bolts.

To pull the airbox back another half an inch or so, loosen the battery box. Half an inch does not sound like much, but that's probably all you will need.

As far as cables, I usually slide the carb assembly in, then before putting the carbs into the boots, install the throttle and choke cables. After they are in place, you can tilt the carbs into the boots, engine boots first, then slide the airbox boots into place. Once they are snugged down, fasten the airbox to the frame and move the battery box back into place and tighten it down.

.

[jlvdo]

Can't figure out how they did it at the factory on a time-critical assembly line-does anyone have a trick for this, or is it just wiggle and fiddle until they seat in place?

Regarding getting the bank of carbs onto the rubber sleeves without too much effort:
I was having the same (*^(&! problem putting the carbs back on. My next door neighbor is a retired mechanic. He heard me swearin' came over and asked if I have any brake fluid. Yep, he proceeded to slick up the opening rubber with brake fluid, and the carbs popped back in, no problem! I can get them on easily by myself now. This comes in real handy, given that I'm trying to synch these dang carbs and havin' a lot of difficulty, having to takin' em off and on. Just don't put too much brake fluid on or spill on painted parts. I tried silicone lube as well- doesn't work nearly as well/easily.

[Flaggo60]

Regarding getting the bank of carbs onto the rubber sleeves without too much effort:
I was having the same (*^(&! problem putting the carbs back on. My next door neighbor is a retired mechanic. He heard me swearin' came over and asked if I have any brake fluid. Yep, he proceeded to slick up the opening rubber with brake fluid, and the carbs popped back in, no problem! I can get them on easily by myself now. This comes in real handy, given that I'm trying to synch these dang carbs and havin' a lot of difficulty, having to takin' em off and on. Just don't put too much brake fluid on or spill on painted parts. I tried silicone lube as well- doesn't work nearly as well/easily.

Hey! I'll try it! Thanks.

[ianralph]

I found that my wife's hairdryer warmed up the carb boots so they were more flexible making it a lot easier to get the boots on without having to use any lubricant.

My other tip is to ensure that you clean your greasy finger marks off the hairdryer before you return it to the bathroom.

[Dre]

I found that my wife's hairdryer warmed up the carb boots so they were more flexible making it a lot easier to get the boots on without having to use any lubricant.

My other tip is to ensure that you clean your greasy finger marks off the hairdryer before you return it to the bathroom.

Also don't use the Lady's hairdryer to spark up the embers in your fireplace, She still says it smells like a campfire every time she uses it...