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    #16
    The clacking sound is caused by the rollers slipping against the primary gear. That's why I always suggest installing a new primary gear along with the clutch. Actually, they come as a set in most cases. Sometimes you can get away with a cheap fix by installing new pins/springs/rollers but the primary gear has to have minimal grooving/galling to still allow things to work. I personally like to fix something like this once and be done with it. My time is too important.
    Living my whole life in California, I can't speak for really cold weather and the effects on the clutch but I doubt there's any significant problem with the rollers gripping a primary gear with a good surface to contact the rollers. I also have a 1085 kit and have had no problems with slippage due to higher compression.
    And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
    Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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      #17
      The clacking sound is caused by the rollers slipping against the primary gear.
      Yes I agree

      That's why I always suggest installing a new primary gear along with the clutch.
      That is what I did (twice) with the same result. The new gear still clacks!!

      Living my whole life in California,
      I have only been here since 1969.

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        #18
        Could I possibly borrow someone's GS1000 rotor puller? I bought one from Z1 and it's the wrong type. DOH! I'd pay for round-trip shipping and a small rental fee if you like.

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          #19
          Will the wrong puller work on mine?
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #20
            Originally posted by 80GS1000 View Post
            Could I possibly borrow someone's GS1000 rotor puller? I bought one from Z1 and it's the wrong type. DOH! I'd pay for round-trip shipping and a small rental fee if you like.
            Use the swingarm pivot, it's the same thread and will remove the rotor easily.
            http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

            Life is too short to ride an L.

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              #21
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              Will the wrong puller work on mine?
              Don't think so, but who knows. http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2176

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                #22
                Nope. It says it does fit yours. Get your money back or the right one.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by 80GS1000
                  Could I possibly borrow someone's GS1000 rotor puller? I bought one from Z1 and it's the wrong type. DOH! I'd pay for round-trip shipping and a small rental fee if you like..
                  What tool did you finally use to remove your 80 GS1000 generator rotor? Does the 1980 model have a different size & pitch than earlier 78/79 GS1000's?
                  Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                  Use the swingarm pivot, it's the same thread and will remove the rotor easily.
                  The previous Z1 tool link is a M16 X 1.5 and tkent02 swingarm pivot bolt is M16 X 1.5, one works & one does not?
                  Steve

                  1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)

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                    #24
                    I used Tom's trick to remove the rotor on my 1000 and it worked great. Some rotors are harder to remove than others or so I'm told, so if you have a stuburn one, I'd get the proper tool if the rotor doesn't pop off using reasonable force using the bolt method.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                      #25
                      First time removing a rotor here...

                      What am I doing wrong? I got the authentic Suzuki rotor removal tool and a new starter clutch from Bikebandit today and I tried removing the rotor. The rotor wouldn't budge.

                      I threaded the outer part of the tool onto the rotor till seated, and then the inner part into the crank(?) till seated. Then I hit the inner part with a 22 mm socket attached to an electric impact wrench while my wife held the other end of the crank under the ignition cover with a wrench to keep it from rotating. It's left hand thread so the impact wrench was turning to the left. Wouldn't budge. Are you supposed to hit the rotor with a rubber mallet or something to get it off after using the rotor remover tool?



                      Ideas please?

                      Also, what's the correct procedure to re-install the rotor and starter clutch during reassembly?
                      Last edited by Guest; 01-10-2009, 11:01 PM.

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                        #26
                        run center bolt down as tight as possible.
                        remove socket and impact.
                        take a big hammer(steel)
                        and smack the F*ck out of the center bolt in the puller.
                        if it doesnt pop off then repeat procedure and bang it again.
                        if this doesnt work then heat the alt. rotor nose where the puller threads on and repeat above procedure.
                        small propane torch works fine and you should know how much/less heat to apply without lossening the magnets glue.
                        a small taper rotor will come off.

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                          #27
                          Just to add...it's the screw in the center that forces the rotor off; the large outer piece just gives the screw something to anchor against.
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Oh

                            a small taper rotor will come off.
                            So it is one of the easy ones

                            small propane torch works fine
                            Propane did not work on the big end crank; use Mapp gas torch.

                            Watch out for the magnets.

                            Pos

                            P.S.



                            This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.
                            Last edited by posplayr; 01-10-2009, 11:55 PM.

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                              #29
                              The rotor may been put on with Red Locktite, mine was very difficult to remove initially.

                              Get a propane torch or mapp ( propane worked for me ), light it, stand it pointing the flame towards the rotor hub for at least 5 to ten minutes, this will weaken the locktite and allow you to remove the rotor.

                              In my case i bought the original suzuki slide hammer since i may have to do this again someday. The original weight is only 2 pounds which was not enough to get the rotor off.

                              I used a 25 ( twenty five ) weight lifting weight, yanked three times and the old rotor finally came off.

                              Some aren't this hard to come off however the PO of my bike did a lot wrong on this bike.

                              Be careful using the impact wrench as it may strip the threads on the puller.

                              Hope this helps.
                              Last edited by Guest; 01-11-2009, 12:53 AM.

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                                #30
                                80GS1000,
                                how did things go with the alt. rotor removal?
                                just wondering...

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