What I have been doing is blocking the 2 and 3 piston and sliding the cylinders over. That's been easy using hose clamps as ring compressors. However, when I get to the 1 and 4 pistons I can't seem to get them high enough (without pulling out the 2 and 3 pistons) to block them in to keep them straight. Anybody have any tips or tricks for doing this? This is the first bike I've ever tried to rebuild and I've never considered myself mechanically inclined. I had really thought I would get her started this weeked, guess not
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Getting frustrated need advice
Collapse
X
-
glstine
Getting frustrated need advice
I'm rebuilding a 1980 gs550. First attempt at putting on the cylinder jug I bent a ring. No big deal ordered new rings. Second attempt got three of the four pistons in fine, #1 piston was not straight and while trying to get it straight managed to crack the cylinder wall. (BTW I have a post in the parts wanted for anyone that has a spare).
What I have been doing is blocking the 2 and 3 piston and sliding the cylinders over. That's been easy using hose clamps as ring compressors. However, when I get to the 1 and 4 pistons I can't seem to get them high enough (without pulling out the 2 and 3 pistons) to block them in to keep them straight. Anybody have any tips or tricks for doing this? This is the first bike I've ever tried to rebuild and I've never considered myself mechanically inclined. I had really thought I would get her started this weeked, guess notTags: None
-
The only advice I can give is to dump the ring compressor and just feed the rings in with your fingers (or fingernails). There's plenty of taper on the bottom of the bores to help you with this - I always find the compressors - proper or not - just get in the blo*dy way.
If you lube the block on the bores and just let it move over the pushed in rings using its own weight with very, very gentle tapping with your hand it should pop on easy enough. Note you 'll have to slide the block on at a very slight angle (around 2mm across the width) if your doing this on your own. ie top ring on no.1 in, then top ring in no.4 in, then no.4 2nd ring, no.1 2nd ring and so on.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
-
ThAzKat
I agree, use oil at bottom of cylinder and on pistons. get the inside pistons in first. My main issue the first time I did it was, patients lot of it!
I wonder how you managed to crack a cylinder, that is a very difficult thing to do.
Comment
-
Originally posted by ThAzKat View PostI agree, use oil at bottom of cylinder and on pistons. get the inside pistons in first. My main issue the first time I did it was, patients lot of it!
I wonder how you managed to crack a cylinder, that is a very difficult thing to do.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
Suzuki mad
Get no 2 and 3 seating in the bore and line up 1 and 4 with the bores. Slide the barrel down till it gets stuck which should have covered the rings on the pistons.
Now the tricky bit. Turn the engine over with the 19mm spaner and use the grip of 2 and 3 in the barrel to pull the block down and allow 1 and 4 to slide in.
You will also fnd that the rear tensioner makes this harder as it get a little jammed in the barrels.
Then all of a sudden the barrel drops and the pistons are inand you can get the barrel fully down.
Suzuki mad
N.B Had three goes at this first time aroud. Clamps cost me 2 base gaskets......
Comment
-
glstine
Originally posted by ThAzKat View PostI agree, use oil at bottom of cylinder and on pistons. get the inside pistons in first. My main issue the first time I did it was, patients lot of it!
I wonder how you managed to crack a cylinder, that is a very difficult thing to do.
Comment
-
chiphead
What was said above is all true and it also helps a lot if you have a another set of hands and eyes who completely understands what you are trying to do. When I was doing this for a living we always asked another tech to help get the cylinder on.
Comment
-
I tie speaker wire to the cam chain and after I set the 2&3 cylinders up high I just throw the cam chain into the engine. This locks the crank so the pistons don't move. Use ring compressors, fingers, screwdriver or hose clamps on 2&3 while gently tapping the side of the cylinder. When they are in pull the cam chain out and rotate the engine until 1&4 are accesable. Throw the cam chain in again and repeat on these cylinders.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
glstine
Just dropping the cam chain in will lock the crankshaft? That would certainly help I would think. Everything I've read said be careful not to drop the chain in. Next attempt I will be having someone come over to help that knows what's going on. This last time just had the wife and 14 year son, they tried but didn't really understand what we were trying to accomplish.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Billy Ricks View PostU've used large zip ties to compress the rings to get the block back on.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 44506
- Brooksville Fl.
Originally posted by hampshirehog View PostThe only advice I can give is to dump the ring compressor and just feed the rings in with your fingers (or fingernails). There's plenty of taper on the bottom of the bores to help you with this - I always find the compressors - proper or not - just get in the blo*dy way.
If you lube the block on the bores and just let it move over the pushed in rings using its own weight with very, very gentle tapping with your hand it should pop on easy enough. Note you 'll have to slide the block on at a very slight angle (around 2mm across the width) if your doing this on your own. ie top ring on no.1 in, then top ring in no.4 in, then no.4 2nd ring, no.1 2nd ring and so on.
Thats what I do too. Its always worked out very well for me.
EarlKomorebi-The light filtering through the trees.
I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.
Comment
-
rudy
I've done all four pistons at once. Plenty of oil, time and patience. Just used a dental pick to feed the rings in one at a time. My big sausage fingers can't reach them otherwise. Lube is DEFINITELY an important part, second only to patience.
Don't do it when you're pi$$ed off, feeling rammy, tired, or in a hurry. You're better to leave it until tomorrow. Doing things a second time just makes you mad and poor.
Comment
Comment