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Replacing Wheel Bearings
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mixongw
Replacing Wheel Bearings
I've never been into this part of the bike. Is it difficult to replace the front wheel bearings on my bike? Also the rear, I guess, the Ebay listing is selling them both for $13.00. The fronts are making a roaring noise at about 45mph and a vibration when turning at low speeds. Any advise is appreciated.Tags: None
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Billy Ricks
Originally posted by mixongw View PostI've never been into this part of the bike. Is it difficult to replace the front wheel bearings on my bike? Also the rear, I guess, the Ebay listing is selling them both for $13.00. The fronts are making a roaring noise at about 45mph and a vibration when turning at low speeds. Any advise is appreciated.Last edited by Guest; 11-02-2008, 03:26 PM.
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SqDancerLynn1
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ThAzKat
Be sure to have the bearing square, if you try to drive the new one in at the littlest angle it will oversize the hole. I am not trying to scare you but it does happen.
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spyug
Check your owners manual as there is likely a tube spacer between the bearings. It can be tricky getting the bearings out with these things in the way and trickier still getting new bearings in and getting these things centered.
You may have to bust through the race on one bearing and pull it out in pieces. Once the one bearing and spacer are out it is then easy to punch out the other bearing.
With the bearing out clean out the bearing seats in the hub as rust and grunge can build up and make the new bearings go in off square and sometimes stops them from properly seating.
To put new ones in I would install one in the manner suggested, then use the axle to hold the other bearing and spacer centered as you install it. If all goes right and the bearings are properly seated you should be able to remove the axle and the spacer sits tight between them.
Definitely change out your bearings if they are as bad as you say and don't ride until you do. Very dangerous
Stay safe.
Cheers,
Spyug
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A long screwdriver and a hammer. The spacer in the front wheel will move from side to side so you can catch the edge of the bearing.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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rudy
The way I've done it for a number of wheels is this:
-Find a concrete lag bolt that will fit inside the bearing. Not too tight, but not too lose either. These are about $1.50-$2 at just about any hardware store.
-Tighten the lag bolt into the bearing. Be careful not to go in too far and catch the spacer.
-Use a long drift punch and knock the bearing out, take the spacer out, flip the wheel over and knock the other bearing out.
-When installing new bearings, freeze the new ones overnight and heat the hub with a heat gun just before installation. If you got the hub hot enough, the new bearings will actually just drop right in, no hammering needed.
It's worked like a champ for me. Still have the lag bolts, and they still work.
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