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    Im running to rich what to do

    I have a 1981 GS550t it has the stock bs32 carbs. how can I get my bike to not run so rich?

    i know there is an air idle screw but i dont know where.

    I have rebuilt the carbs twice and know them inside and out. but I just dont know what every thing is called.

    your help is greatly appriciated
    Jake

    #2
    Did you use Mikuni jets during rebuilds?

    Check the volts at the coils. Chances are you have a weak ignition.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      Did you use Mikuni jets during rebuilds?

      Check the volts at the coils. Chances are you have a weak ignition.
      I've done the coil relay mod, and no I used all the original parts including the o-rings I just cleaned every thing.

      but what I am really wondering is where is the air adjutment screw. I know I should get the o-rings but I just have never tryed to find them I am sure it's not hard.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by nisom512 View Post
        I've done the coil relay mod, and no I used all the original parts including the o-rings I just cleaned every thing.

        but what I am really wondering is where is the air adjutment screw. I know I should get the o-rings but I just have never tryed to find them I am sure it's not hard.
        There is no "air adjustment screw" on the carbs on your bike. Your bike uses BS32SS carbs. The only adjustment screw is the PILOT adjustment screw, which simply adjusts the amount of premixed air and fuel getting to the pilot circuit, which is the circuit the bike runs on while idling, and just above idle. If you FULLY and THOROUGHLY cleaned your carbs, IE, took them completely apart as per the tutorial on the site here, and DIPPED them, then you should know that the adjustment screw is on top of the carbs, as you should have removed it when you cleaned them. If you didnt follow the tutorial, like alot of people dont, and try to simply spray the carbs out with carb cleaner, which is a monumental waste of everyones time might I add, cause it DOESNT work, and then people come on here and say they cleaned them when they didnt, and then they swear up and down they're clean, only to FINALLY, 5 weeks later actually do it RIGHT, and lo and behold, suddenly the bike runs great, then you havent removed the FACTORY PILOT SCREW PLUG that covers the adjustment screw so that people wouldnt tamper with them way back when. You need to follow the tutorial and clean them right, and the tutorial will also show you how to remove that plug, so that you can adjust them.

        And, BTW, your rising idle is NOT because you're running rich I would bet, its because you HAVENT replaced the orings behind the intake manifolds, and its sucking air thru them there. A rising and hanging idle is a LEAN condition, not a rich one. There are also Orings INSIDE the carbs that will need replaced, which, amazingly enough, you get from the same perosn that sells the intake boot orings


        Get your carb and intake boot orings here
        www.cycleorings.com

        Follow the tutorial on disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the carbs here


        If you dont do it right, the bike will never run right. Its that simple.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
          There is no "air adjustment screw" on the carbs on your bike. Your bike uses BS32SS carbs. The only adjustment screw is the PILOT adjustment screw, which simply adjusts the amount of premixed air and fuel getting to the pilot circuit, which is the circuit the bike runs on while idling, and just above idle. If you FULLY and THOROUGHLY cleaned your carbs, IE, took them completely apart as per the tutorial on the site here, and DIPPED them, then you should know that the adjustment screw is on top of the carbs, as you should have removed it when you cleaned them. If you didnt follow the tutorial, like alot of people dont, and try to simply spray the carbs out with carb cleaner, which is a monumental waste of everyones time might I add, cause it DOESNT work, and then people come on here and say they cleaned them when they didnt, and then they swear up and down they're clean, only to FINALLY, 5 weeks later actually do it RIGHT, and lo and behold, suddenly the bike runs great, then you havent removed the FACTORY PILOT SCREW PLUG that covers the adjustment screw so that people wouldnt tamper with them way back when. You need to follow the tutorial and clean them right, and the tutorial will also show you how to remove that plug, so that you can adjust them.

          And, BTW, your rising idle is NOT because you're running rich I would bet, its because you HAVENT replaced the orings behind the intake manifolds, and its sucking air thru them there. A rising and hanging idle is a LEAN condition, not a rich one. There are also Orings INSIDE the carbs that will need replaced, which, amazingly enough, you get from the same perosn that sells the intake boot orings


          Get your carb and intake boot orings here
          www.cycleorings.com

          Follow the tutorial on disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the carbs here


          If you dont do it right, the bike will never run right. Its that simple.
          thank you very much for you indulgance and yes I am not one of thos people you seem to so highly enjoy.....It took me two times of removing the carbs to finally find every part but I did take out EVERY single part on thos carbs yes including the little dome filter deal that the needle sits in. I was hoping to some day find that o-ring kit but never put any time in to looking for it. or should i just get a full rebuild kit from georgefix on ebay? i will read for the adjustment screw though.

          Thank you
          Jake

          Comment


            #6
            Make certain you have the floats adjusted properly too. It has a big effect on mixture.

            Comment


              #7
              Dont get them from Georgefix. You can get them from a GSR Member HERE at the address I supplied you with. They're cheap, I think for carb rings, and intake boot orings AND new cap head bolts to replace the crappy phillips head screws Zook used, i paid maybe $25 bucks? Something like that. Did you assure that your float hight was set correctly? Go through the tutorial, it will help you with things you might have missed, but I am pretty sure replacing those INTAKE BOOT orings is going to fix most of your hanging idle...

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
                Dont get them from Georgefix. You can get them from a GSR Member HERE at the address I supplied you with. They're cheap, I think for carb rings, and intake boot orings AND new cap head bolts to replace the crappy phillips head screws Zook used, i paid maybe $25 bucks? Something like that. Did you assure that your float hight was set correctly? Go through the tutorial, it will help you with things you might have missed, but I am pretty sure replacing those INTAKE BOOT orings is going to fix most of your hanging idle...
                Yeah I think so too cause I looked at them yesterday after talking with you and I totally looked right past them there is most deffinatly leakage going on there.

                and hey thanks I will order this o-ring kit and be good to go hope-fully.

                Thank you for all your help
                Jake

                Comment

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