2 questions in the form of 4 pictures

[Billy Ricks]

In the old Q&A the guy that wrote up the stator papers recommends replacing the seperate regulator and rectifier with the single r/r. He didn't go into detail, but from what I could gather one leg of the stator goes to the regulator then to the headlight circuit. The other two went to the rectifier. I could be completely wrong about that, maybe one of the EE's will verify if that sounds right. If that's the case it should just be a simple matter of running all three legs to the r/r.

[rustybronco]

The early models took one leg of the stator output, ran it up to the headlight switch. when you turned on the headlight it put the extra output of the third leg to the rectifier.

the reason for that method was, the less wattage produced, the less wattage to dissipate as heat when the headlight was off.

[TheCafeKid]

Replace them with a single unit R/R. Bad or not, one of them will go bad eventually, nip it in the bud now instead of being stuck out on the road somewhere when it goes bad. Best $40 you can spend on your bike IMO.

[Billy Ricks]

Here's the Q&A from the old forum. Maybe someone can make sense of it.

<B>

DATE: November 8, 1997
QUESTION: More stator problems
In the GS - Resources Web-page on the Stator Papers 2 the following Statement exists:

The ac wires from the rectifier are so hot they melt and the rectifier will burn your fingers. I have replaced the rectifier and checked out the regulator (it's OK) and of course the battery has been replaced more than once. HELP!!!!! The dealer has no answers.

We seem to have a terminology problem here... it would normally be very hard to replace the rectifier and leave the regulator untouched, as they are both the same! The regulator/rectifier is one sealed unit! So either we have a terminology error or you have got a VERY unstandard kitchen sink charging unit.

The above Answer isn't correct, I own a 1978 GS750D (restored last year). In this machine the regulator and the rectifier are both single units. I have replaced the bad rectifier by an standard 3 phase rectifier 150V 25A and have repaired the regulator. In later models (1979 and later I think) the regulator and the rectifier is in one unit. Please excuse my poor English. Because of this problem I have not jet registered on the GS-Pages.
RIDER: Holm Tiffe
REPLY: Ritzo Muntinga
I think the generator is at fault. First you'll have to check if there's no short circuit between the phases. This could also have it's cause in the wiring emerging from the generator itself. See if the wires in the alternator-cover are okay. Otherwise it will be the generator itself. When there are many of the windings 'missing' (short-circuited) then the generator will produce low voltage/high current. This high current is what makes your AC wires get hot.

Alternator check: 1/ no connection from one phase to the lamination (ground) 2/ phase to phase resistance app. 0.7 Ohms 3/ after disconnecting the output AC-wires from the alternator, when you rev the engine to about 5000rpm the no-load output between the phases must be 70V AC at least. Make sure you switch the multimeter to ACV.

Recheck the new rectifier and disconnect the regulator. The regulator only has a one-phase input and above a certain AC-Voltage short circuits part of the sine-wave to ground. So you can disconnect the regulator and run the bike to see if there's still a problem. A good fully charged battery will keep the charging-voltage within limits, it won't get above 15.5V DC. No problem running it this way for a short period.

What you have to do is to connect the green-white output wire from the alternator straight onto the red-white rectifier-input. This way you bypass the switch in the lighting-circuit that only adds the third alternator output to the system when the lights are running; bad piece of design, because you put load on the three-phase alternator in a very strange way. An even better solution is to get rid of the separate rectifier and regulator and use a combined unit that regulates all three phases (very important: don't use a unit from another Suzuki, they're bad)

</B>

[Billy Ricks]

Replace them with a single unit R/R. Bad or not, one of them will go bad eventually, nip it in the bud now instead of being stuck out on the road somewhere when it goes bad. Best $40 you can spend on your bike IMO.

You can pick up one off Ebay for $40 or less from a year or two old Honda CBR1000RR or take the lazy way out and get one from Duanage.

[rustybronco]

Replace them with a single unit R/R. Bad or not, one of them will go bad eventually, nip it in the bud now instead of being stuck out on the road somewhere when it goes bad. Best $40 you can spend on your bike IMO.

You can pick up one off Ebay for $40 or less from a year or two old Honda CBR1000RR or take the lazy way out and get one from Duanage.

My thoughts exactly! I even ditched a working R/R on the '80 for a sh541c-12.
But he said money may be tight for him.
a properly working system even if close to 30 years, with GOOD CLEAN connections may last even longer still.

and the stator still needs to be checked, so no loss there.

what I had in mind if he would like to look at using it... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

[Billy Ricks]

My thoughts exactly! I even ditched a working R/R on the '80 for a sh541c-12.
But he said money may be tight for him.
a properly working system even if close to 30 years, with GOOD CLEAN connections may last even longer still.

what I had in mind if he would like to look at using it... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

If someone can help him with the wiring details I have an extra CBR1000RR I'll send him for the cost of shipping. I paid $30 for it but it is just lying around. This offer is good for him only.

[rustybronco]

http://netfree1.blogspot.com/2008/09/download-honda-cbr-1000-rr-2004-service.html

[Billy Ricks]

In the case of the R/R I offered him I believe all he would need to do is wire all three legs of his stator to the R/R. Red to the battery positive and green to battery negative. He would then possibly need a switched positive to his headlight switch. No sensor wire on the 1000RR R/R.