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Originally posted by rudy View Post
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostSomeone once posted up a site that sold aluminum spools to replace those plastic ones...might have been the same place that sells aluminum cam end plugs, but i will be damned if i can remember where...wish i knew!
I bought them from a guy on ebay that had a carb rebuild business (not wiredgeorge). I'll see if I can remember who he was and let you know. They were 20 bucks a set. I bought three sets. Well worth the $$.
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Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View PostThat was when Suzuki went from VM to CV type carbs.
Makes sense to me.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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C.V.
I have an OEM choke knob retainer for my 850. It looks remarkably like a 13mm socket...
BTW- this gets my vote for best noob question too...but seriously there are no stupid questions here, just people who need answers and a LOT of really great folks ready to help! good luck brother!Last edited by Guest; 11-07-2008, 06:18 PM.
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scrapper
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SteveR
I have a 81 GS850G and the choke pull knob would not stay up for cold start.
I tried to tighten the plastic friction lock but that did not work...
I sprayed some contact cement (C77) on a Q-tip and wiped it on the shaft near the knob. It dried and it works a little too good but it solved the problem easily.
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Put a clothes pin under the choke knob to hold it open. Then when warmed up, clip the clothes pin onto the wires from the brake lever. I did this for a year until I got around to replacing the choke cable for 16 dollars. That seemed to solve the problem.1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by duaneage View PostPut a clothes pin under the choke knob to hold it open. Then when warmed up, clip the clothes pin onto the wires from the brake lever. I did this for a year until I got around to replacing the choke cable for 16 dollars. That seemed to solve the problem.
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BassCliff
Yes, Mr. duaneage is a very practical guy. I also like his idea of getting a bunch of fuses ("they're cheap") and use them for troubleshooting ("start wiggling wires") when you're trying to find a short. Common sense is not very common any more. Neither is common decency nor common courtesy. But we've got the whole package in Mr. duaneage.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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I shove a ball point pen cap at the end of the rod on the carb = full choke. Since the cap is slightly tapered, one can back the cap a little to lower the revs once the bike is started.
One time while out riding my free to me 79 CR 250 near the Nooksack river, I lost the main mounting bolt holding the engine to the frame, under the exhaust manifold. I found a suitable diameter of vine maple and pounded it in with a nearby rock a rode for a few more hours.GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES
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