Air screw adjustment....solved

[Larry D]

This is an update for this thread..

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=134020

So, if you read the whole thread, it sounds as if I had the problem solved...not quite.
When I tried to start the bike the next day, it was very difficult to get it going. I had the choke on all the way, and when it did get going , I had to hold the throttle about an eighth open to keep it running...This is really not the issue.

Luckily, I have Friday's off for the rest of the year, so today I pulled the carbs and took a closer look. I found no issues with #3 carb, which was the only one that responded to the adjusting of it's air screw. Carbs #1 and #2 air passages that the air screw sits in, were simply clogged...I would've bet you $100 that they were clean.

The issue rests with #4 carb, the air screw tip is broken off in the carb body.

CRAP !!!

The carbs themselves were really clean other than the air passages, I guess in my haste of reassembly, I forgot to clean that particular passage.

I'm gonna order 4 new air mixture screws so they're all crispy and new.

I've yet to search on how to get that teeny tiny broken tip out of that teeny tiny hole that's a good inch down in a very narrow cylinder...

[hikermikem]

I've yet to search on how to get that teeny tiny broken tip out of that teeny tiny hole that's a good inch down in a very narrow cylinder...

I removed one once using a small dia pin. The backside of the hole the tip is broken in goes into the big bore (verify with the other carb body). Use a pair of needlenose pliars & push the tip back up using the pin.

Trick is finding a strong pin the right dia... I used a deltronic pin gage from work for mine. Perhaps a piece of small dia weld wire ?

Good luck

[Mysuzyq]

This is an update for this thread..

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=134020

So, if you read the whole thread, it sounds as if I had the problem solved...not quite.

Luckily, I have Friday's off for the rest of the year, so today I pulled the carbs and took a closer look. I found no issues with #3 carb, which was the only one that responded to the adjusting of it's air screw. Carbs #1 and #2 air passages that the air screw sits in, were simply clogged...I would've bet you $100 that they were clean.
The carbs themselves were really clean other than the air passages, I guess in my haste of reassembly, I forgot to clean that particular passage.

Wow, you have to give Pacman props for correctly diagnosing the problem, in the other thread....he called it perfectly!

Tony.

[Larry D]

Yeah, he got it right. I can see how those passages can be easily missed.

I think that tip had been broken off in there since I got the bike. I must have simply overlooked the fact that the freakin' tip was missing.

The crazy thing is that there is absolutely no reason to drive the that tip down into the teeny tiny hole. Afterall they're normally 2 (or so) turns out.

[Larry D]

I've tried to look at the online fische's and decipher which part number the idle air mixture screws are........'81 GS 750 L......Can somebody give me a little help with this ?

Thanks

[bwringer]

I've tried to look at the online fische's and decipher which part number the idle air mixture screws are........'81 GS 750 L......Can somebody give me a little help with this ?

Thanks

They don't appear on the fiches, at least on US models -- remember, good boys and girls aren't allowed to mess with the idle mixtures. If you want to be naughty and risk the wrath of the EPA, you're on your own.

However, I've got a couple of these idle mixture screws laying around. Give me a holler when you get back into town.

[TheCafeKid]

The most common reason for the snapped off tip is people screwing them back in TOO HARD (hence the warning to do so untill LIGHTLY SEATED in the cleanup tutorial)

If you havent gotten it out yet, I read that one gent had great success disassembling the carb and BOILING it. The mostly zinc body expanded at a much faster rate than the metal the screw is made out of (most times the jets are brass, but those seem to be maybe a mild steel? They're not brass in colour...so i dunno) and the thing just fell out. Other guys have had luck using a fine dental pick and pressing it out with the tip...Id opt for the boiling method first myself, as id be afraid with my shakey hands id scratch the living crap out of the polished carb throat.


Hope it helps...


TCK

[Steve]

If you can feel the tip sticking into the carb throat, you have it made.

I just used the flat side of a screwdriver and pressed it back in. You will hear a snap when it breaks free, just make sure it comes out before you put your new jets in there.

.

[SqDancerLynn1]

You will not find it on the parts diagram. Check with Z1

http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2568

[Larry D]

Thanks Everyone,

I cannot see the end of the tip, so I'll try the boiling method first. The hole is in the throat of the carb body, so, I'm going to need something that is ..1st, smaller than the hole diameter and strong..and 2nd, that's turned at 90 degrees and hope I can get enough pressure on it to pop it out. I'm guessing a dental tool of some sort.

We've been planning this weekend out of town for awhile. It's gonna have to wait 'til next week.....I'll update after the "surgery".

Thanks again to all.

[trippivot]

steel brake line bent 90 deg

get a sharp pick and do not mutilate the opening or as little as possible.

this is one of the toughest problems to fix period

tough spot to be in.. good luck