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Argh! Can't remove lower steering bearing race!!!
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ironsheik
Argh! Can't remove lower steering bearing race!!!
Hey all. I got the top race out of the frame on my 83 1100ed but the bottom one won't come out easily. I cut it pretty deeply with my dremel but the angle doesn't really allow me to punch it any more with a chisel. I kind of mangled a small part of thee tube as well which sucks. I'll have to file some before the new race goes in. Anyway, I'm planning on using a bit of heat on the frame but there's no good way I can see to knock the race out from the top. The angle doesn't allow me a good place to tap on. Any tips would be appreciated.
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I think that's why I left the old outer race in there and just slid the new inner race and bearing on the stem up into the old outer race. The new All Balls race seemed the same as the stock one.
Last edited by bonanzadave; 11-10-2008, 08:51 PM.82 1100 EZ (red)
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NICK!
I took a really big straight blade screwdriver and beat just the very tip over until I could get on that bottom race from the top. Think I bent over only about 1/8", works like a charm.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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I took a pry bar and bashed the plastic handle until it shattered and I had a nice hunk of metal. The angled tip reaches the top of the race perfectly.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
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mighty13d
if you have a welder handy and you're able to reach up in there, run a couple hot beads of weld right around the inside of the race and let it cool on it's own. after it cools you'll be able to pull on it with a finger and pull it out.
I've done this with a wheel bearing from my car. 12 ton press wouldn't remove it, so i grabbed the welder and once it cooled, i only had to drop the socket i was using to press it with onto it, and it fell right out!
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Originally posted by bwringer View PostI took a pry bar and bashed the plastic handle until it shattered and I had a nice hunk of metal. The angled tip reaches the top of the race perfectly.
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Originally posted by waltfen View PostCut all the way through it with the dremel and it will almost fall out.
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dirtyfingers
Yep, prybar works good. But.....I found that the particularly hard ones would sometimes fall right out if you layed a bead of weld (with a MIG welder) and allowed them to cool. Cant be sloppy with the welding.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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Mongo no have welder.
Mongo smash prybar. Smash Mongo smash! Pretty plastic handle go boom.
Then mongo bash prybar into bearing race with big hammer. Bash bash bash.
Soon, evil bearing race go ping on floor.
Mongo happy.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.
Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.
SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!
Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!
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Suzuki_Don
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Good grief! All this work to get them out. How hard is it to install them?Dogma
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endlessGSgeek
Special tool tip!!
Originally posted by ironsheik View Post... there's no good way I can see to knock the race out from the top. The angle doesn't allow me a good place to tap on. Any tips would be appreciated.
Josh
find a 12" bolt, 5/8" thick
Pin a washer between two nuts on the threaded side. The washer should be THICK, and as big as you can find (that still makes it down to the race from the top). Orient the washer so that the sharp side of the washer (cut edged) aims down, for a better bite.
Find the lip, and use a hammer to hit it from above. The bigger the washer, the better your bite. ONCE the race begins to move, you can get the washer in deeper behind the race and it gets easier.
I saved hardware from a telephone pole (galvanized bolts) to do this. It works like a charm.
Good luck!
EndlessGSgeek
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endlessGSgeek
another special tool
Originally posted by Dogma View PostGood grief! All this work to get them out. How hard is it to install them?
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ironsheik
Thanks for all the tips. The next time I have to do this, I'm paying $60 for the Suzuki tool. I'll bet it's a piece of cake. I thought I learned long ago to use the right tool for the job but I guess I just didn't see the cost/benefit thing working out at $60 for a single use tool. Now I know it would have saved me a couple of hours of annoyance and damage to my bike. Oh well. I'm on my way to grab a proper pry bar now... Hopefully I didn't mangle the frame too much.
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