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Pod possibility (this is technical, not performance)

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    #16
    Originally posted by maro View Post
    Hey Brother,

    I'm sure this was addressed before from other 650 owners. And I'm sure you tired you A$$ off to get them back in...but it is Quite possible. I;ve done it several times...with new boots and old boots.

    The trick is (with the 650 and others I imagine)...obviously slide the front part of the airbox back as far is it will go. then bring the carbs in from the left side of the frame..while sitting on the bike. I generally pop them into the outake boots, then the finagel them into the intake boots. . it takes about 15 mintues of wiggling and patience. 15 minutes doesn't sound like much...but it's a long time to wiggle something . It works though. I forgot to mention that the boots get sprayed with wd-40 before I get to fitting the carbs in. I do this all from above the bike. Once the carbs are in the outake boots, I tighten them, and then I slide the airbox forward and wiggle the intakes in.

    I'm sure you heard this all before. But... there it is again. PITA, but can be done!!
    Well, I've done everything you did, Maro, except sit on the bike. I tried it all from the left side. Maybe trying from a sitting position is the magic key. I'll file this thread away for next summer if the pods don't work out, because I put them on today and do they ever look HOT!!!

    And as we all know it is better to look good than to run good ...

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      #17
      Originally posted by Flaggo60 View Post
      Well, I've done everything you did, Maro, except sit on the bike. I tried it all from the left side. Maybe trying from a sitting position is the magic key. I'll file this thread away for next summer if the pods don't work out, because I put them on today and do they ever look HOT!!!

      And as we all know it is better to look good than to run good ...
      Indeed indeed!

      Let me know how the pods work out! Are you running a 4-1? are you going to re-jet?

      and yeah....if you ever happen to go back.... sitting on the bike is the key. From that position you can manuever the carbs to be better aligned while getting them in the first row of boots.... blah bl ah..

      Enjoy the pods!

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by maro View Post
        Indeed indeed!

        Let me know how the pods work out! Are you running a 4-1? are you going to re-jet?

        and yeah....if you ever happen to go back.... sitting on the bike is the key. From that position you can manuever the carbs to be better aligned while getting them in the first row of boots.... blah bl ah..

        Enjoy the pods!
        I'm running a 4-1, a MAC that I recently sandblasted and painted with flat black high temp paint-a great cure for lousy chrome jobs. I'm going to watch the threads here-I think a Dyna Jet kit, don't know which one yet. Oh and did I say it really looks HOT????. Maybe I'll post a picture tomorrow.

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          #19
          Our Dynojet jet kits for carburetor vehicles is the perfect option for upgrading your air/fuel ratio for more power and speed than ever before. Buy now!

          See if Dynojet makes a kit for your bike and get one from mawonline.com.
          Get a set of K&N pods. Just pay the money. They last forever if taken care of. Follow the instructions on the Dynojet kit. Go one notch rich on the needle (lower) than the instrutions. They tend to be lean.
          Don't be afraid to drill the slides.
          My bike runs great from start to finish with pods and I have set alot of carbs up to do the same for folks here.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #20
            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
            .............Don't be afraid to drill the slides...............
            What is drilling the slides?

            Other than that, I've checked and Dynojet has a Stage 3 kit for the 650. K&Ns will have to be a budget item for later consideration. All in all, I think it'll be a worthwhile trial, and I'll also be keeping the airbox equipment should I change my mind later.

            Thanks to all who offered opinions.

            Comment


              #21
              The air port for lifting the slides needs to be drilled to lift the slide more quickly.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                The air port for lifting the slides needs to be drilled to lift the slide more quickly.
                And the correct dia. drill comes with the Stage 3 kit?

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Flaggo60 View Post
                  And the correct dia. drill comes with the Stage 3 kit?
                  Drill bit, yes it does.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                    http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/index.aspx
                    See if Dynojet makes a kit for your bike and get one from mawonline.com.
                    Get a set of K&N pods. Just pay the money. They last forever if taken care of. Follow the instructions on the Dynojet kit. Go one notch rich on the needle (lower) than the instrutions. They tend to be lean.
                    Don't be afraid to drill the slides.
                    My bike runs great from start to finish with pods and I have set alot of carbs up to do the same for folks here.
                    Other than longevity, why is it so important to use K&N's? I bought Emgos, paid about twice what they're worth, and dammit, I wanna make 'em work.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      They are a better filter. You can go with what ever filter you want. I just feel one investment is better than two.
                      The Emgos also don't flow as well as the K&Ns so you'll have to jet differently. They might filter better though.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                        They are a better filter. You can go with what ever filter you want. I just feel one investment is better than two.
                        The Emgos also don't flow as well as the K&Ns so you'll have to jet differently. They might filter better though.
                        That's kinda what I figured. I also read that the emgo's foam element gets freaky when wet.
                        Anywho, I'm all for paying an upcharge for an item that lasts longer, but my freakin bike has sizable structural portions of frame missing (nice one, PO). I'll be lucky if my bike outlasts the emgos.
                        Speaking of, who wants to sell a titled frame for reeeeeal cheap?

                        Comment

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