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83 gs750es 'tank slap'

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    #16
    My 81 750L doesn't have any shimmy on deceleration other than what I get from road conditions - grooved pavement, etc.

    I was just thinking that I only know a couple of people who have experienced a tank slapper.

    One was on a modified Z1 that was set up for drag racing back in the 70s. The front end had just been modified and at about the end of the quarter at about 155 mph from what I can remember he went into a tank slapper and ran off the end of the strip before getting it back under control. The front end was changed back to stock before the bike was raced again.

    Another was on a MotoGuzzi California II. It happened while riding on a two-lane highway that was pretty rough. He was riding at about 80 and a tank slapper started that he couldn't get back under control and ended up dumping the bike at about 60 resulting in serious injuries. Later the cause was determined to be a combination of road conditions, worn steering head bearings, and worn wheel bearings.

    Head Shake

    Similar to a tank slapper only a little less violent. Usually a quick shaking of the handlebars is all that results.
    * EXUP Brotherhood's glossary of terms

    Tankslapper

    A violent repetitive swinging of the handle bars from left full lock to right full lock. Very scary to new riders, or anybody of any riding level. Some result in crashing but you can ride them out. Firstly, one of the best ways to avoid having one is to not strangle the bars when you ride. Don't grip them like you're trying to strangle your mother-in-law. A nice relaxed grip prevents many a tank slapper. If you happen to have a violent tank slapper, the best advice is to ride it out - DON'T ROLL OFF THE GAS!. If you are able to ride it out, immediately check your front brakes (pull the lever and pump them up). Violent slappers can spread the pads in the calipers, and you may need one or two pulls on the lever to bring the brakes back to full power.
    * EXUP Brotherhood's glossary of terms

    This is really a quite different thing than a shimmy or a headshake.


    I have only witnessed the one that happened at the strip. I have experienced head shake when test riding a bike that needed a lot of work and experienced various forms of shimmies on many bikes but I personally hope that I never experience a tank slapper.

    I have heard discussions about tank slappers and been to AMA safety clinics where they were discussed but they do not seem to really be that common on the street. However, it is probably a good thing for people to know something about as a little knowledge may help in the event we ever experience one. Most of the discussions of tank slappers were concerned with bikes either pushed way beyond their limits or with modifications that altered the steering geometry.

    I had an H2 Kawasaki that I used to run at the strip in the seventies and a sever headshake was enough to keep me from messing around with the bikes rake and trail.

    Mike

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      #17
      Never any shimmy with either of mine.

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        #18
        First step cover the tank with a towl. Remove the large bolt for the handlebars and remove them. Loosen the large jam nut. Use a chisel/ lg screwdriver and a hammer and tighten the adjustment nut 1/8-1/4 Turn Then reassemble VERY SIMPLE

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          #19
          Jeez, I thought I had seen it all. I would not beat on the steering head with any device much less a chisel! Folks, if you are gonna perform your own maintence, you are gonna need proper tools and a little common sense. That includes a service manual, torque wrench and in this case Suzuki part #09940-14911 otherwise known as a Steering nut socket wrench. Proper torque is 29-36lb-ft. Otherwise just pay up and leave the wrench turning to the pro's for you and your bike's sake. Ride On, Ed.

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            #20
            Hi Ed,
            Using Lynn's method (and mine too) isn't a big deal as long as the bearings aren't tight to begin with. I don't think she led anybody who could think things through astray.

            Cheers, Steve

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              #21
              This method has always worked fine for me too.

              About the wobble: could be some unbalance in the wheels. Or too much play in the front wheel bearings.

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                #22
                Since you're going to need a socket and torque wrench to install the nut, you may as well use the socket to loosen it. :-)

                Earl


                quote="srivett"]Hi Ed,
                Using Lynn's method (and mine too) isn't a big deal as long as the bearings aren't tight to begin with. I don't think she led anybody who could think things through astray.

                Cheers, Steve[/quote]
                All the robots copy robots.

                Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                You are free to choose, but you are not free from the consequences of your choices.

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                  #23
                  Maybe you are right and maybe my idea of proper maintence is a bit unrealistic and uncompromising but that probably comes from my aviation background where it must be done right as your life may depend on it. My point was if there is a tool designed for this function and a set value to tighten to, why would you beat it tight with a screwdriver to who-knows-how tight? That is not a professional way to do things in my opinion. How can anyone disagree with that? I probably was a bit harsh, and did not mean to slight anyone, but wanted to stress that any maintence task should be done properly. Ride On, Ed.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by oldschoolGS
                    Maybe you are right and maybe my idea of proper maintence is a bit unrealistic and uncompromising but that probably comes from my aviation background where it must be done right as your life may depend on it. My point was if there is a tool designed for this function and a set value to tighten to, why would you beat it tight with a screwdriver to who-knows-how tight? That is not a professional way to do things in my opinion. How can anyone disagree with that? I probably was a bit harsh, and did not mean to slight anyone, but wanted to stress that any maintence task should be done properly. Ride On, Ed.
                    Ed,

                    I think you're right when you say that if there's a right tool for it, why not use it?
                    On the other hand: some of us don't own the tool. That doesn't mean that we can't do the job without it.
                    We are not talking about "bashing" on the steering bearings, we just tighten or loosen the nut a bit, and try if it works.

                    Again: you're right, but some of us just depend on the "feeling" for the bike. I bet you do sometimes...?

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                      #25
                      You cannot do the job correctly without it as you have no idea how tight it is. There is a reason that a specific torque value is given. Otherwise Suzuki would say to bash it tight with a screwdriver. It is all in attention to detail. How would you know what is causing a steering headshake if you do not even know if the stem nut is properly torqued? Not only that but using a torque wrench for everything will prevent sheared bolts and stripped threads saving your money for tools instead of Helicoil kits. Ride On, Ed.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by oldschoolGS
                        You cannot do the job correctly without it as you have no idea how tight it is. There is a reason that a specific torque value is given. Otherwise Suzuki would say to bash it tight with a screwdriver. It is all in attention to detail. How would you know what is causing a steering headshake if you do not even know if the stem nut is properly torqued? Not only that but using a torque wrench for everything will prevent sheared bolts and stripped threads saving your money for tools instead of Helicoil kits. Ride On, Ed.
                        No more arguments; you're right!

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                          #27
                          At least on '83 and up you are supposed to tighten the nut to 28-36 lbs. ft.
                          Then turn the frnt end lock to lock 5 or 6 times to seat the bearings. Then back off the nut 1/4-1/2 turn. Then finish assembling.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by jojo
                            No more arguments; you're right!
                            Did Dineke teach you these words, Harry?

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                              #29
                              No one seems to have mentioned swing arm bushes. That's the second thing I'd check after checking the rear tyre pressure

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                                #30
                                fork pressure ?

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