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UPDATE: Taking way too long to warm up

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    UPDATE: Taking way too long to warm up

    Original thread here:
    This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.


    My mechanic came over today to try to fix my bike. He started by checking the idle mixture screws, and found 3 of them to be 1 1/2 - 2 turns out which is correct for this bike. However, one screw was at 4 1/4 turns out. So, he though maybe he had found out what was causing the bike to take so long to take the choke off. He installed a new set of NGK's and cranked her over.
    Still not running right, so he has taken off the carbs for inspection/rebuild.



    In the process of removing fuel tank, the short fuel line that goes to the shutoff valve sprung a leak. He took that off and we could see it had a hole right where it has a bend in it. It is the original line, and had some deterioration inside. Perhaps some of this rubber dislodged and found its way to the jets ?
    He will be replacing both of the short fuel lines and also the one that goes from fuel pump to carbs. Line from tank to pump has already been replaced. I will also have an inline fuel filter installed.

    #2
    Leaking fuel lines, and one pilot screw misadjustment, will not cause the bike to run like you describe. Have your mechanic take the carbs apart and soak each body in carb dip to make sure the various passages are open. When putting the carbs back together make sure all the various O-rings are replaced with new. If it were me, I'd shim the needles as well.

    Good luck.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Leaking fuel lines, and one pilot screw misadjustment, will not cause the bike to run like you describe. Have your mechanic take the carbs apart and soak each body in carb dip to make sure the various passages are open. When putting the carbs back together make sure all the various O-rings are replaced with new. If it were me, I'd shim the needles as well.

      Good luck.
      +1 on this advice!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Florida Guy View Post
        He started by checking the idle mixture screws, and found 3 of them to be 1 1/2 - 2 turns out which is correct for this bike. ...
        By "correct" are you meaning that's what the book says it should be?

        Not sure if your newer bike was jetted any better from the factory than our older ones, bu many of us start with two to three turns out on the mixture screws, then tweak for highest RPM. Most of the manuals don't specify the number of turns for our bikes, but the few manuals that do specify, say something like 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 or so. However, that setting is meant to maximize emission numbers, not driveability. By turning the mixture adjust screws out a bit more, you richen the mixture at idle settings, which will really help your warm-up times. Many on this board report that after setting their screws to 2 1/2 to 3 turns out, they frequently don't even need to use the choke to start the bike.

        .
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