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How to adjust e-clip position?

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    #1

    How to adjust e-clip position?

    I was swapping out main jets over the weekend trying to dial in the jetting on the 1000. I finally settled on the Dynojet 170 as it pulled the hardest on the top end as judged by the butt dyno compared to the next two smaller Mikuni size jets. The next two sizes smaller felt lean and the bike felt slow by comparison.

    So with that figured out, on to the needle jet. I'm using the adjustable needles provided in the Dynojet stage 3 jet kit. Is there a way to adjust the e-clip position without dismantling the carbs? The midrange feels fat (rich) as it sort of bogs and makes a low exhaust tone before it rockets off when the mains kick in. So do you go up or down a notch to lean it out?
    Last edited by Guest; 11-18-2008, 01:53 AM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Well, the carbs have to come apart some, but not very far.

    You don't usually have to remove them from the bike, either. Just remove the four screws that hold on each top, then carefully lift the diaphragm and slide. It takes a long pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the circlip in the bottom of the slide, then you can remove the needle. To lean the mix, raise the clip on the needle.

    .
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    Comment

      #3
      you go a notch up on the clip as that lowers the needle = leaner mixture

      the needles you can pull out of the carbs by taking the carb top covers off with the carbs on the bike
      GS850GT

      Comment

        #4
        Where's the needle set at now?
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          Where's the needle set at now?
          Below the diaphragm!! Sorry Bill, the devil made me do it!
          The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

          GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
          GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
          GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
          GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

          http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
          http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

          Comment

            #6

            I'll pray for you Ian!
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment

              #7
              I've been working on getting my 78 GS1000 dialed in. I put an airbox back on the bike. After doing some plug chops with he new airbox installed I still needed to make some adjustments to the jet needles. I thought about it a while and figured that I could do it without removing the carbs. It went pretty quick. In fact, I timed it. From the time I got the tank off until the time I buttoned up the carbs was 30 minutes.

              Basically,
              remove the carb tops
              remove the big rod that moves the slide
              Pull each slide out
              Make your adjustments

              For reassembly I ran in to a little hitch. The jet needle flops around a little and it was hadr to get it in to the needle jet with all of the parts assembled. I opted to take it apart and reassemble once all the parts were in the carb bodies. It's not too tough if you use the right magnetic screwdriver.

              You can do a bench synch by observing the throttle cable cam. Adjust each diaphragm until it just starts to move the throttle cable cam and then back off a touch. This makes it easier too. Because the cam sticks out so far, it translates subtle movements of the diaphragm in to obvious movements in the throttle cam.

              After this button it up and your good to go.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by drhach View Post
                I've been working on getting my 78 GS1000 dialed in. I put an airbox back on the bike. After doing some plug chops with he new airbox installed I still needed to make some adjustments to the jet needles. I thought about it a while and figured that I could do it without removing the carbs. It went pretty quick. In fact, I timed it. From the time I got the tank off until the time I buttoned up the carbs was 30 minutes.

                Basically,
                remove the carb tops
                remove the big rod that moves the slide
                Pull each slide out
                Make your adjustments

                For reassembly I ran in to a little hitch. The jet needle flops around a little and it was hadr to get it in to the needle jet with all of the parts assembled. I opted to take it apart and reassemble once all the parts were in the carb bodies. It's not too tough if you use the right magnetic screwdriver.

                You can do a bench synch by observing the throttle cable cam. Adjust each diaphragm until it just starts to move the throttle cable cam and then back off a touch. This makes it easier too. Because the cam sticks out so far, it translates subtle movements of the diaphragm in to obvious movements in the throttle cam.

                After this button it up and your good to go.
                Your carbs are VM's. 80GS1000's are diaphram carbs....different beast.
                85 GS1150E May '06 BOM
                79 GS1000S Wes Cooley Beast





                Comment

                  #9
                  You can still remove the slides without removing the carbs. Just the tanks.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    long screwdriver

                    Yeah, you can change the needles without taking the carbs off, but one tool essential for this job is a really long screwdriver. Based on recommendations here I got an Ames JIS Phillips head. The 11" blade length makes getting to the top screws on these CV a breeze... I only wish I had orderd two of them. It's the BEST $6.00 I ever spent.

                    http://amessupply.com/products1.cfm?aid=1&cid=D&sid=DE&fid=1404070

                    Comment

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