My 300 runs like poo in the cold...

[Geoff4130]

So the temp is well below freezing now. My cycle starts up just fine with some help from the choke and idles great. The problem is when I try to go somewhere it loses most all the power, like it's running on one cyl. It will lurch with power now and then but stays slow. After about 5 minutes or so of driving like that it's like the midget that lives in my motor decides to let it run on both pistons and all is good again.

I tried letting it warm up for 5+ minutes, but it still does it. Is this just a cold issue? I really don't want to park it for the winter when it's not even winter yet, lol.

[Griffin]

Have you checked valve clearances lately? Also check for vacuum leaks around the rubber intake boots.

[snark]

Could be air leaks...but in my expierience the GS normally doesn't like the cold.

[Marvey]

Could be air leaks...but in my expierience the GS normally doesn't like the cold.

I don't have much to offer regarding the technical aspects, but I wanted to second this statement.I have experience with two GSs, both of which are VERY coldblooded. And I'm in AZ, so I can't even imagine how coldblooded they'd be somewhere where it was actually cold.I have to take it easy for a couple miles or so, even after a decent warmup because it's just boggy.

[Geoff4130]

Thanks guys. I have no idea how to check the valves. I'm gonna guess it's the weather cause it ran fine since I got it at the end of August and just recently it's been acting up.

[tkent02]

I don't have much to offer regarding the technical aspects, but I wanted to second this statement.I have experience with two GSs, both of which are VERY coldblooded. And I'm in AZ, so I can't even imagine how coldblooded they'd be somewhere where it was actually cold.

Mine all haul ASS in cold weather.
Things do get leaner in the cold, take that into account when you tune.

[silverhorse47]

It's the cold alright. Put in lighter weight oil for the winter if you are not already using a multigrade, and put some fuel stabilizer in your tank if your gas company doesn't use something like that already.
If you are happy with your bikes performance in the warm times, buy a block heater and find a way of strapping it to your sump overnight. They are about fourty five bucks. This will keep the oil warmish and allow your bike to get up to operating temperature more quickly. Don't get the cord caught in the chain!
Unless you have a warm living room...
I personally wouldn't mess too much with the carburation or adjust the valves of an air-cooled engine just because it is a little colder outside. Especially not the valves, which are easy to forget about come the spring, when outside temps increase and riding highs blot sensibilities.
If you have an oil cooler, you could tape a bit of doorskin over a small part of it to decrease oil cooling and allow the engine to warm up more quickly and run a bit warmer.
If you do this, make sure you know what 'high' on your temp guage is, so you don't fry the essentials.
s.

[Geoff4130]

Oil cooler? Temp gauge? I don't even have a fuel gauge, lol. If I lived on the ground floor I would for sure keep it in my living room

Well at least it's nothing major. Looks like it's getting parked until the temp goes above 20 again

[Marvey]

...Looks like it's getting parked until the temp goes above 20 again

Why's that man? You got a short ride in?

Is there something else? If you got a problem, people here are are willing to help.. What's the deal?

[Griffin]

Thanks guys. I have no idea how to check the valves. I'm gonna guess it's the weather cause it ran fine since I got it at the end of August and just recently it's been acting up.

Oil cooler? Temp gauge? I don't even have a fuel gauge, lol. If I lived on the ground floor I would for sure keep it in my living room

Well at least it's nothing major. Looks like it's getting parked until the temp goes above 20 again

You absolutely NEED to check the valve clearances. Not just because they might be causing cold running problems (which is a common indicator that your clearances are too tight), but because you'll eventually wreck your top end if you don't. It isn't hard to do.

Your bike has four valves per cylinder, with threaded adjusters. This photo tutorial from BassCliff's website will guide you through it.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/16valve_adjustment.pdf

You're lucky in that you only have half as many valves to adjust as many of us. One other thing to note. On the tutorial, the writer uses a special tappet adjusting tool. They are nice to have, but not absolutely necessary. I've adjusted valves on this style of bike a couple dozen times using a small wrench (6mm if I recall correctly, maybe 7mm) and a pair of needle-nosed pliers.

If your valves haven't been adjusted since you acquired your bike, YOU MUST DO THIS NOW.




Edit: I know there are several GSR members who live in Wisconsin. You might start a thread looking for fellow "Badgers" and see if you can find somebody who lives close enough to you to kind of mentor you in the mechanics of these old beasties.

Which never happens in Central Indiana, by the way...*

[Geoff4130]

Thanks for the link! I'll check it today or Tuesday.

I really should ride one of my bicycles more anyway. I've been doing more motoring and less pedaling recently and I'm feeling fat and lazy. Plus burning fuel when I don't need too.