And now comes the finesse part. Use a large-ish 19mm box end or socket wrench to turn the motor using the bolt on the right side under the ignition cover. The picture below is the first position to check the exhaust clearances for cylinders 1 and 2. The #1 exhaust cam lobe should point forward and parallel with the top of the head.
Insert your feeler gauges and check the clearance between the lobe and the shim for #1 and #2 exhaust. If you must change a shim, rotate the bucket so that the notch is facing toward the center of the motor, use your MotionPro shim tool (it takes some practice) to push down the bucket, then use heavy tweezers to remove the shim. If you change a shim, coat it with a little oil before you insert it then turn the motor a few times to seat it and check the clearance again with your feeler gauges. The shims should have numbers on one side. Put the number side down so the numbers don't get worn off.
Once you've checked exhaust #1 and #2, turn the motor so that the #1 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the head. Check clearances for intake #1 and #2. Replace if necessary, don't forget to spin the motor to seat the shims and re-check.
Now on to #3 and #4. Turn the motor so that the #4 exhaust cam lobe is parallel to the head, pointing forward. Check clearances for #3 and #4 exhaust, replace shims if necessary.
Next, turn the motor so that the #4 intake cam lobe is pointing straight up, perpendicular to the head. Check intake clearances for #3 and #4.
Simply stated, when measuring exhaust clearances, point the outside exhaust cam lobe forward (parallel with the top of the head) and measure both valves on that side. When measuring the intakes, point the outside intake cam lobe up (perpendicular to the top of the head) and measure both valves on that side. Do this for both sides of the motor. I was hoping that the addendum (starting on page 15) made all of this clear.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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