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Carb time! 1/2

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    Carb time! 1/2

    ok, so now that i have stranded myself 3 times due to fouled plugs, i am finally going to get to doing the carbs.

    now, here are my questions, one of two: I have new o-rings (cycleorings.com) and the PO said that when he pulled the bowls off that it looked pretty good in there. but considering his previous statements (said that the speedo was bad, it was the drive gear, said that the stator was bad, it was the R/R, said the spark plugs were the same as my car uses, threads match but wrong length) i dont put much trust in his advice. and i am assuming that i am going to have to clean them pretty good. now asside from cleaning and changing the o-rings and cleaning, is there anything else i should check while i'm in there? how do i know if the jets for example need to be replaced or something like that?

    #2
    Jets are not likely to wear out. If the bike has been moded there is a chance that the jets are the wrong size.

    Comment


      #3
      The only reason you replace a jet is due to physical damage, like tearing up the screwdriver slots.

      To verify cleanliness, hold the jet up and peer thru the hole at a light source. There will be a uniform shiny brass appearance. Really shiny.

      You can use regular spray can carb cleaner, but it's not as effective and how many times do you want to pull your carbs apart, anyway?

      Clean, new O rings, set float height, set fuel screw, set air screw, bench sync and reinstall. That's it!

      Where the heck is Costal, WA? I've been from Ilwaca to Neah Bay, never seen Costal!
      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
      2007 DRz 400S
      1999 ATK 490ES
      1994 DR 350SES

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Big T View Post
        Where the heck is Costal, WA? I've been from Ilwaca to Neah Bay, never seen Costal!
        is that better?

        specifically skagit valley
        Last edited by Guest; 12-02-2008, 04:40 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          Yes, now I can place you

          You are in the land of Carter Turk, beware the fast moving, long distance Katana! Don't attempt to follow that bike.

          And,please read up on how to post pictures. Pics always enhance repair threads.
          1978 GS 1000 (since new)
          1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
          1978 GS 1000 (parts)
          1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
          1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
          1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
          2007 DRz 400S
          1999 ATK 490ES
          1994 DR 350SES

          Comment


            #6
            While an air compressor works great for blowing them out, I also use a can of compressed air with the straw attached to do a final check to make sure all the passages are totally clear. Nobody yet has mentioned replacing the intake manifold o-rings yet. They dry out, get cracked, will cause an air leak and poor running while also making it hard to tune. If you've ready changed them that's great. If you haven't do it while it's easy rather than later when you have to pull the carbs again. If you spend the time and get the bench sync done accurately it will start easier and run a lot better making the final carb sync a lot easier. Also before the final sync make sure the valves are set correctly or you'll be doing the sync again. You've got lots of support here so don't be intimidated with the job and ask more questions if you have to.
            '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
            https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35860327946_08fdd555ac_z.jpg

            Comment

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