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"G" wiring harness on an "E"?

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    "G" wiring harness on an "E"?

    OK, so after trying to chase down and repair various electrical gremlins on my 80 GS1000E with varying success I've decided that the wiring harness is pretty much fubar. I noticed on Bikebandit that while a new 80 GS1000 "E" model harness is no longer available from Suzuki, the 80 GS1000 "G" model harness is still for sale. I don't want to go through the time or trouble to attempt to either make a loom or try to repair this hunk of copper further.

    A quick cross-reference on the wiring diagram in the service manual shows that they look to be identical, except for the "G" model has a gear indicator (nice feature BTW).

    So will the "G" model harness in fact work on an "E" bike?

    Thanks!

    #2
    a wiring diagram is only a schematic, as you would know

    so, what you would need to confirm is that the location of the various electrical components is the same - this primarily refers to the two indicators units, r/r, fuse box, and ignitor

    usually, there is enough slack in the harness to accomodate to the minor differences in wire length due to the differences in the frame
    Last edited by psyguy; 12-04-2008, 03:10 AM.
    GS850GT

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      #3
      I would vote yes on this since the E and G frames are similar enough. The L frames are drastically different and would put key connections in wrong places. It would be best to look at an E and G model side by side and note where the regulator, ignitor, turn signal controllers, coils and other parts are attached.

      You could always lengthen a run or two as well.
      1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
      1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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        #4
        I doubt that you would have much trouble running the G harness except for the plugging into the gauges where there may be a mismatch. That's easily remedied with some parts from vintageconnections.com. Having a new harness on there will save you many headaches.

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          #5
          You can also push the pins out of the connectors and reroute them to match. I mounted a 750L gauge set on my bike for a while to try it out. I had to reroute the wires to match but it was easy. They were the same colors, just in different locations.

          you can also move both connectors this way.

          The nice thing about old bikes is you have more options. Newer computerized bikes leave little wiggle room
          1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
          1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by RJ View Post
            I doubt that you would have much trouble running the G harness except for the plugging into the gauges where there may be a mismatch. That's easily remedied with some parts from vintageconnections.com. Having a new harness on there will save you many headaches.
            Thanks for the help guys. Agreed on the saving headaches bit. About the same time that the headlight completely stopped working (dead headlight circuit as checked with multimeter) the bike stopped charging too - only 12.7 volts at the battery @ 4000 RPM. Been accumulating new electrical parts (stator, R/R, Dyna coils, and just ordered a new harness) over the last couple of years so now's a good time to replace them all in one go.
            Last edited by Guest; 12-05-2008, 07:01 PM.

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              #7
              I can hook you up with a Honda RR replacement kit for it if you need one, only 40.00 delivered. PM me for details
              1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
              1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by duaneage View Post
                I can hook you up with a Honda RR replacement kit for it if you need one, only 40.00 delivered. PM me for details
                Thanks for the offer but a new Electrosport R/R is in the garage already.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Get a multimeter, solder gun, wire and some shrink wrap and do it yourself. I hope you have a manual.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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