what tools do i need to change valve cover gasket

[NES07DEZ]

and olso do the valve clearence. on a 1982 gs 850 L DOHC
Question # 2 should i olso change the head Gasket.

[mighty13d]

here's all you need to know about it!!!

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/gs850valve_adjust.pdf

[Mr. Brown]

...be glad to help. Don't live too far from you...

[satchmo]

Look into those silicone gaskets. They should come up in a search on the forum. A lot of members have had good luck with them. Saves you scraping them off when you have to change them.

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. NES07DEZ,

There's no need to change the head gasket, unless you have a problem with it. Is the head gasket leaking? If not, leave it alone. But the valve clearance check and valve cover gasket replacement should occur every 4000 miles according to the factory service manual. There is a valve check guide on my website with lots of pictures.

If you buy a reusable silicon gasket (http://www.realgaskets.com/files/motorcycle.htm), make sure you buy the right one. In 1982 Suzuki changed from a 16-bolt pattern to a 19-bolt pattern. If you are unsure, count the bolts on your valve cover. You will need one of these Real Gasket part #'s: RG-GS850-G1 or RG-GS850-G2.

I use a Real Gaskets silicone gasket. It will last for years. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Roostabunny]

If you do buy a silicone Real Gasket (which I recommend, mine's worked great) I also recommend picking up a 10mm Gear Wrench or similar ratcheting box wrench.

With the very low torque required on silicone gaskets, it's tough to get all the bolts snugged just right the first time. Call me impatient, but the ratcheting wrench has saved me lots of time by making it easy to work those bolts (especially the inner ones) without removing the tank.

[Don-lo]

Before you start taking off the cam cover, take the bike off the sidestand and lean it wayyyyyy over to the left and count to 5. Put it back on the sidestand, go over to the other side of the bike and lean it wayyyyyy over to the right, then gently put it back on the sidestand. This is important because it drains the pools of oil in the top of the head. These pools start leaking as soon as the cam cover comes loose. The biggest problem is that oil often creeps into the cam tower bolt holes. If not removed, the oil will hydraulically stop the bolt, resulting in either stripped threads or loose bolts.

[BassCliff]

Before you start taking off the cam cover, take the bike off the sidestand and lean it wayyyyyy over to the left and count to 5. Put it back on the sidestand, go over to the other side of the bike and lean it wayyyyyy over to the right, then gently put it back on the sidestand. This is important because it drains the pools of oil in the top of the head. These pools start leaking as soon as the cam cover comes loose. The biggest problem is that oil often creeps into the cam tower bolt holes. If not removed, the oil will hydraulically stop the bolt, resulting in either stripped threads or loose bolts.

Hi Mr. Don-lo,

Wow! That's a new one for me. I'll try that next time. Thanks for sharing!


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff