83GS550E CAM Tensioner Bad?

[GQROD]

How can i tell if my cam tensioner is bad.?

Searched prior threads that say how to replace it but not how to tell if it's bad.

It is leaking oil slightly and i bought the O ring to fix this but due to a hard clacking sound i'm hearing starting ever so slightly noticeable at idle and more pronounced at 3000 to 4000 RPM i'm thinking my stock cam tensioner is bad.

Don't want to buy one if it could be something else causing this noise.

Valves adjusted to .013 mm

Carbs bench and vac synced

[Steve]

To determine its status, it will be necessary to remove it. Unfortunately, that will also require removing the carbs to get enough room.

Chances are, though, that it is not bad, but more likely, installed improperly. Brian Wringer (bwringer on this site) has a good pictorial on the subject of rebuilding a tensioner. I don't think you will need to rebuild it, just remove it and re-install it properly.

You might be able to determine if it's installed properly without removing anything. Look in from the left side of the engine, you should be able to see a locknut and setscrew on the tensioner. Loosen the locknut, try to turn the set screw in. It should be about 1/2 turn out from seated. Many times someone will re-install it and forget to loosen the setscrew, and it will not be able to take up slack as it should. If the screw is not the 1/2 turn out, turn it out and use the locknut to hold it there. If it is 1/2 turn out already, you will be better off removing the tensioner and taking it apart to make sure everything is working correctly.

.

[GQROD]

Thanks steve, other than the o-ring what else will i need?

Appreciate the advice, i'm in the home stretch of restoring most of the mechanical issues on the bike and this is the last one left to correct.

[Steve]

You will only need the o-ring if it's leaking, but if it makes you feel better, get it anyway.
There is also likely a gasket between the tensioner and the cylinder block. That one will be necessary.

.

[p_s]

No need to remove the carbs on this model. You might have to loosen the oil line that goes to the head between #1 and #2. I've also reused that gasket 5 or 6 times. It never gets any oil on it at all.

[chef1366]

Have you had it off and did you "cock" it before reinstalling it?

[GQROD]

I may be at fault here, i did remove it when i replaced the gasket.

The o-ring is definetly leaking so i have it.

I may not have installed it properly. It was not binding or sticking when i pushed it manually to test it. But i did not cock it when i re installed it.

Thank you all for your help and advice i'll remove it take it apart, re=-install it and see if it makes a difference.

[chef1366]

Loosen the lock down bolt on the tensioner piston. Push the piston in while turning the spring loaded knurly knob. When it is in the whole way lock the piston down. Install and loosen the lock down a half turn and you will the piston click out. Tighten the lock nut while holding the lock screw in place so it doesn't tighten and lock the piston up.

[GQROD]

Thanks chef will do. I'll post pics once i get it apart.

I remember that when fully extended i could move the piston back about half an inch before it could not go back anymore.

Of course turning the big round knob counterclock wise i could push the piston all the way back to fully compress the spring.

[Larry D]

Here's the link to bwringer's rebuild page.

When your re-installing the big spring, turn it against the spring, like your trying to unwind the spring. It took me a couple trys to figure that out.

Even though it states it clearly in the tutorial.....

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

[GQROD]

Thanks so much for link Larry i appreciate it.

AM i right in assuming that once installed, the shaft should be able to move BACK against the spring about 1/2 and inch? or should the shaft be locked into place with no backwards movement possible once installed?

I turned the engine and saw the big round knob turn slightly so it must be working but i will check everything when i take it apart. I'll post pics on photobucket once i have it out.

[MelodicMetalGod]

Thanks so much for link Larry i appreciate it.

AM i right in assuming that once installed, the shaft should be able to move BACK against the spring about 1/2 and inch? or should the shaft be locked into place with no backwards movement possible once installed?

I turned the engine and saw the big round knob turn slightly so it must be working but i will check everything when i take it apart. I'll post pics on photobucket once i have it out.

Not sure if you've seen this already, but for guidance on this check the Factory manual on page 3-79. Also see page 3-38.

[GQROD]

Not sure if you've seen this already, but for guidance on this check the Factory manual on page 3-79. Also see page 3-38.

Thanks i did check it and seemed straight forward but it was a little difficult to figure out how much it should move back once installed to accomodate for chain stretch.

I'll post pics once i get it out again.