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    1100 motor apart

    I must re-sleeve my 1100E. Is it a big deal to re and re sleeves.
    Have done this with diesels, but not air-cooled bikes.

    #2
    WHY must you resleeve? Is a simple honing not going to do the job? It would be simpler still to step up a size on the bore. Generally, unless you have some SERIOUS cylinder wall damage, you can get +1 or +2 pistons and rings and step up the bore slightly. Then again, I am not entirely sure that would be any cheaper than resleeving??? What about simply finding a spare set of jugs off ebay? They're on there all the time, and usually can be had in pretty good shape for CERTAINLY cheaper than a resleeve.

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      #3
      I had two blocks, one with a liner missing and the other with one busted skirt. Just yesterday I took them to a machine shop to have one made whole. It wasn't a big deal. The guy machined a slug to use under the press and it all took maybe an hour, this included some time talking. It took about 1 1/2 tons of pressure to press the liners out. He went ahead and pressed all three good liners out of the block I was discarding so now I have two spares. This block will be used with a set of 12:1 forged Cosworths I've had lying around for years.
      Last edited by Guest; 12-11-2008, 08:55 AM.

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        #4
        sleeves 1100

        Originally posted by TheCafeKid View Post
        WHY must you resleeve? Is a simple honing not going to do the job? It would be simpler still to step up a size on the bore. Generally, unless you have some SERIOUS cylinder wall damage, you can get +1 or +2 pistons and rings and step up the bore slightly. Then again, I am not entirely sure that would be any cheaper than resleeving??? What about simply finding a spare set of jugs off ebay? They're on there all the time, and usually can be had in pretty good shape for CERTAINLY cheaper than a resleeve.
        Thanks CafeKid.....there is only fifty bucks diff between boring mine out to 74mm. Or installing new 78mm sleeves and pistons. I have over 90k on this motor.

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          #5
          No personal experience but I've heard that the cylinder liners will practically fall out of the cylinder if you heat the assembly. Anyone ever try this?
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #6
            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
            No personal experience but I've heard that the cylinder liners will practically fall out of the cylinder if you heat the assembly. Anyone ever try this?
            I asked a couple of machinists about this having heard the same. They didn't think it would work. What has to be remembered is that the liners expand along with the block. I've held propane torches on aluminum heads before for bolt extraction and the aluminum barely got warm while the bolt got hot. The two metals heat and expand at different rates.

            I had thought about trying it myself but opted to have a machinist take care of it.

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              #7
              Been there, Done that. Put the jugs, upside down in an oven. Put bricks at both ends, so the sleeves can just fall out. Put oven on hi. After appx. 30 min. the sleeves just started falling out, one by one. Put the new sleeves in a freezer, the night before. After the old sleeves fall out, the frozen sleeves will fall right in. Be sure the new ones go in flush with the top of the head. Actually easier than it sounds, just don't burn yourself, jugs are kind of bulky to handle in the oven.
              1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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                #8
                One more thing, the slug the guy made that pressed my liners out was stepped. The bottom of the slug was machined to match the bore of the liner then stepped to match the outer diameter of the liner. He didn't want to take a chance of expanding the bottom of the liner, especially due to the chamfer on the bottom. If that had happened he would have ruined the block.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by rphillips View Post
                  Been there, Done that. Put the jugs, upside down in an oven. Put bricks at both ends, so the sleeves can just fall out. Put oven on hi. After appx. 30 min. the sleeves just started falling out, one by one. Put the new sleeves in a freezer, the night before. After the old sleeves fall out, the frozen sleeves will fall right in. Be sure the new ones go in flush with the top of the head. Actually easier than it sounds, just don't burn yourself, jugs are kind of bulky to handle in the oven.
                  Good info. I was tempted to try it but as it turned out the block I'm using had already been milled so when he pressed the liner into the block I was using it stuck up 25/1000th so he had to mill the head another 7/1000th to make it flush and get rid of 3/1000th warp.

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                    #10
                    Do NOT set the oven on "high" or you will warp the block! It only needs to be at about 350-400 degrees & it will take just a little longer but the block won't have as much chance to distort. The sleeves DO just fall out. Ray.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by monte View Post
                      I must re-sleeve my 1100E. Is it a big deal to re and re sleeves.
                      Have done this with diesels, but not air-cooled bikes.
                      it is a breeze. gonna use the oven in your kitchen? it will smoke up the whole house even if you clean the heck out of the cylinders.

                      remember to use weights on the sleeves them selves when they cool down in the aluminum after installation.
                      SUZUKI , There is no substitute

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                        #12
                        Good info guys. I'll start a second business in my kitchen with my industrial ovens.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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