I think the main problem with flushing the crankcase is that 1) there will be residual solvent in the engine after flushing, and 2) the sludge that loosens up may migrate into places where it can do damage. Not worth the risk in my opinion.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Originally posted by Dave8338 View Post
I think the main problem with flushing the crankcase is that 1) there will be residual solvent in the engine after flushing, and 2) the sludge that loosens up may migrate into places where it can do damage. Not worth the risk in my opinion.Ed
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ned37
the only four stroke engines i have rebuilt that ever had any sludge in them to speak of were car engines. i have never seen any crud in a bike engine that would warrant a flush. only time i ever flush a bike engine is to remove metal swarf.
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Spyder
DON'T DO THIS ! ! ! !
You could be risking major problems, such as CLUTCH, OIL PRESSURE, SEALS, and EMBARRASSMENT.
Sludge occurs in car engines when you don't change the oil for ever. The viscosity of the oil breaks down and no longer lubricates. Then begins to burn, the byproduct of burnt oil is sludge.
I can't see this being a common thing in a bike. the rings would gum up and lose compression. Change your oil regularly and stop thinking so hard.
No such thing as bottled "Run Perfect".Last edited by Guest; 12-12-2008, 02:51 PM.
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twistedwankel
Originally posted by rustybronco View PostNo experience with a crank case full of diesel and personally I wouldn't try it.
long ago we use to mix 1 quart of no.1 fuel oil with 4 quarts of engine oil in our cars to thin out the oil in very cold weather, in order to allow the engines to crank easier at low temps. it never hurt the engines we did it on.
I imagine a small amount would help clean a engine.
That said: One day after this "cost saving method", the old chevy 6 developed a serious rod knock. Obviously it was a bad idea for continuous use under actual driving conditions. Those old babbet bearings were easily wiped (melted) but also fairly easy to replace or scrape and reuse. Not like today's engines that are marvels of engineering and metalurgical science.
With todays fantastic lubricants and an ounce of sense in changing the life blood of the engine and transmission - in a bike's case. Why would anyone try to cut corners to save a buck? How far can you walk?
If the engine/trans is so messed up to require magical flushes I guess it doesn't matter as it's not reliable anyhow and you need a complete rebuild involving a thorough cleaning piece by piece.
1. I do know that certain products are able to swell neoprene so can temporarily slow/stop a drippy seal prior to tradein.
2. I do know that certain products contain ketones/solvents (that evaporate) are temporarily effective in dissolving sludge out of a sticky hydraulic lifter before tradein.
3. I do know that a couple ounces of SeaFoam in a bike's crankcase at warm idle for a short period can improve worn/old clutch performance and make the oil dirtier than you've ever imagined only one time after 28 years and 34K miles. So far I haven't had any reason to do it again or tradein the bike either so maybe that is okay as a last resort prior to new clutch springs or spacers?
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cbxchris
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