Cheap new parts?

[bikerfox]

Why are the brass parts for these carbs so expensive? Chapparal wants 30 bucks each bowl valve set and 8 dollars a jet!

AND im having trouble getting the screws off to seperate the carbs

Oh, any idea what that little brass plug is on the stalk that the main jet is screwed in to? What would happen if one is missing? Its on the side of the aluminum post

[BassCliff]

Why are the brass parts for these carbs so expensive? Chapparal wants 30 bucks each bowl valve set and 8 dollars a jet!

AND im having trouble getting the screws off to seperate the carbs

Oh, any idea what that little brass plug is on the stalk that the main jet is screwed in to? What would happen if one is missing? Its on the side of the aluminum post

Hi,

Gee, I wish I knew what bike we were talking about.

Shop around, there are lots of online parts vendors. Check the list here.

Use lots of PB Blaster and a little impact driver?

Would that plug be missing from the #2 carb? Isn't that where your petcock gets its vacuum line?

Good luck, keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[bikerfox]

Its a GS850.

No, the little (tiny!) plug is inside the fuel bowl, on the carb body

[Big T]

Um, you still need to be more specific. Different year 850s use different carbs. It's helpful to put your bike in your Signature, as I did.

If you haven't physically damaged the brass parts, there's no reason to replace them. They're easy to clean.

They're expensive because they are precision instruments.

For jets, I recommend jetsrus.com. Good prices, fast shipping, genuine Mikuni parts.

[psyguy]

Oh, any idea what that little brass plug is on the stalk that the main jet is screwed in to? What would happen if one is missing? Its on the side of the aluminum post

what year is your bike?
dont remember any such part that you're talking about on cv carbs

[Nessism]

If you go to the GSR homepage and look in the Garage section, you will find two carburator rebuild tutorials: for the VM carbs (early GS bikes, pre 1980) and the later BS/CV carbs. These tutorials have the information you need to rebuild the carbs - including part names. Normally, there should be no reason to replace the jets. For O-rings, go to cycleorings.com and order the appropriate kit for your carbs. If you need float bowl gaskets, you can cut your own from gasket paper or order from Z1 Enterprises, dealer source, etc.

Good luck.

[bikerfox]

Ok, i found out, its the index pen for the needle jet.

And there is one reason, the previous owner mangled the jets to the point of very difficult extraction. 3 pilot jets and 1 air jet were shredded.

1980 GS850GL

[renobruce]

go to Z1. Great prices.

[doctorgonzo]

And as far as getting the screws out to take the rack apart, if you don't have an impact driver you might as well forget about working on this bike until you get one... or you'll regret it. A cheap $14.99 special can be found at the auto parts store.

[Suzuki_Don]

go to Z1. Great prices.

And GREAT service. They can get genuine parts for you as well.
I bought all my carb boots, air cleaner boots and stuff from them and even with freight costs they were still cheaper than buying genuine in OZ.

[bikerfox]

believe it or not, i couldnt get them out WITH an impact driver! they were that locked in. I kept soaking them with p'b blaster and they popped after a while, though some of the heads are destroyed now

[Don-lo]

My advice is: don't separate the carbs

[renobruce]

My advice is: don't separate the carbs

Huh? How else is he supposed to dip and clean them? Why would there be a problem with him separating the carbs?

[bikerfox]

how am i supposed to replace the rubber between the carbs then?

[Shaughn]

If I had to guess, his comment might come from mixing the order of the carbs on reassembly, but I'm not entirely sure how'd one accomplish that, considering the fuel rail ports.

Just mark the carb bodies with a china marker (grease pencil) and keep in mind that a long soak in the dip can take the mark off, so don't forget to reapply.