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Clumzi
rear brake issue
So, I got the brake pad replaced on my rear brake and ever since its been squealing and working poorly. When I look at the rear rotor, it looks like the pad is only engaging the center of the rotor. Any ideas? -nickTags: None
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35598
- Torrance, CA
It takes a little while for the pads to wear to the profile of the rotor. Of course, this assumes the caliper is working properly. Did you take the caliper apart and clean it out? I'd recommend doing this if the fluid was brown looking since flushing clean fluid though the system won't get all the chunkies out.Ed
To measure is to know.
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BassCliff
Hi Mr. Clumzi,
I would suggest a liberal spraying of brake cleaner and bleeding the system. It may be time to rebuild your caliper. Keep us informed.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Clumzi
cool. If I remember correctly, I think the guy who did the job said something along these same lines. I think he said the caliper looked ok, but he said I should take it back to him so he could clean it out and bleed the lines again. I'm not taking it to anyone anymore . Time for me to learn.
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doctorgonzo
I'd throw in that the rebuild kits are fairly cheap, if you have any question rebuild the caliper. Brakes are nothing to play with IMO.
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I agree with Doctorgonzo & Nessism. It looks like part # 1 is the complete kit to rebuild your brakes. $40.00 shipped is not bad IMO for new OEM pistons and seals. If your pistons look good the seals are only about $16.00 + shipping. They are correct you should check the piston and also check and/or replace at least the seal and dust boot with a complete flush of the system and new fluid. Once you get the pistons out you will be amazed at the brown & nasty junk behind the seal grooves and overall in the system especially if it has never been touched before. You will be glad you rebuilt them.
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If the rear is pulsing with the brake applied I'd say the disc is warped.
I've had to wait a few days for some brake pads to break in.
Is it impeding the movement of the wheel?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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If you end up replacing the caliper pistons I'd suggest going stainless steel. Eliminates the rust problem for ever and no need to pfaff around with those tricky-to-install piston boots.79 GS1000S
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35598
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by hampshirehog View PostIf you end up replacing the caliper pistons I'd suggest going stainless steel. Eliminates the rust problem for ever and no need to pfaff around with those tricky-to-install piston boots.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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highmileage
The pads can get cocked in there a bit sideways. Bet if you took the pins that hold the pads in place out and cleaned them, then put things back together that your problem would be solved.
A bit of fine steel wool rubbed on the pins would probably do the trick...
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Clumzi
The rotor is fine. If it wasn't, I'm sure he would have asked for some money to fix that too . I have a feeling it is just dirty. A new Clymer is in the mail. The shop manual from BassCliff's site doesn't help with the rear brake 'cause they were different in '77. I'm still POed over loosing that thing. Once I have instructions and an exploded view of the rear brake assembly I'll tackle the thing. -nick
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Originally posted by Clumzi View PostThe rotor is fine. If it wasn't, I'm sure he would have asked for some money to fix that too . I have a feeling it is just dirty. A new Clymer is in the mail. The shop manual from BassCliff's site doesn't help with the rear brake 'cause they were different in '77. I'm still POed over loosing that thing. Once I have instructions and an exploded view of the rear brake assembly I'll tackle the thing. -nick
As far as the exploded view, just go to flatout or bikebandit and look at the fiche. Best exploded view you'll find
Clean the pins as noted above
Typically, the brake hangs up due to contamination, old stiff seal or corroded piston. If , when you disassemble, the piston is not corroded, all you need is the seal and some fresh brake fluid.
Also, pull the rear master cylinder apart and clean out any gunk in there.
I know you're trying to be cheap, but a new brake line is worth it. Braided metal is best.1978 GS 1000 (since new)
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