Front Brake Switch Repair

[portdave]

I got mine from a old thread here. I can't find it right now. I will look some more. I know that Z1 carries them as well but I think the one they have is used by the junction for dual brakes.

Just use one off a Honda (Sorry, didn't mean to use THAT word).

[Steve]

Can you get the pressure switch in a double banjo? I haven't seen one.

OK, Dogma, check it out, they have one..

.

[Steve]

Just use one off a Honda (Sorry, didn't mean to use THAT word).

Hey, there's nothing wrong with a Honda. Because I ride one, there's at least one more GS for the rest of you to fight over.

.

[POULSEN]

Before ordering:
I think Honda uses 10x1.25 pitch for banjo bolts.
I know Suzuki uses 10x1.0 pitch.

BR
Stig

[Suzuki_Don]

Hey, there's nothing wrong with a Honda. Because I ride one, there's at least one more GS for the rest of you to fight over.

.

Yes and we do appreciate that Steve.

And I am not sure of the thread pitch. I can just remember the first Honda I owned in 1971 (CB750 K2) which had one of these switches on the hydraulic line at the base of the triple tree.

[bwringer]

Dennis Kirk:

Double bleed, 10X1.0mm thread: DK part # 193940 $28.99

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/product.jsp?store=Main&catId=416&leafCatId=41604&skuId=193940&productId=p193936&mmyId=

Single bleed, 10X1.0mm thread: DK part #193938 $20.99

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/product.jsp?store=Main&catId=416&leafCatId=41604&skuId=193938&productId=p193936&mmyId=

Personally, I just installed new guts into my front brake switch after it wore out at about 86,000 miles, and it works fine. My GS850 has stainless brake lines, and the lever doesn't move much at all. About two minutes of adjusting, and it works perfectly. $8.99 at DK:

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=p213799&leafCatId=&mmyId=

[BassCliff]

Thank you gentlemen! This information makes a great addition to the Odds and Ends-Brakes page on my little website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[zeke1883]

Regarding pressure switch for front brake.....

OK, I am fairly stupid myself, and I have dicked around with this rip ass stock switch for the last &$^%*# time. I want to install a pressure switch. Here are the specifics:

1979 GS850. Double front disks, but there is only one line coming in to the master cylinder. I am assuming I need to buy the single bleed switch.
Is that correct????

NEXT Question: Once I have it, how the hell do I install it?? I see it has threads on it, do you unscrew the banjo bolt from the front of the master cylinder, and screw this on in it's place??? I am not understanding how the switch gets activated. Is it the pressure of the fluid in the line that does that?

Could someone please explain how to install this thing???

Thanks

[portdave]

Very easy to install. Just replace the banjo bolt and then run the wires inside the boot that goes over the bolt down to the wire harness. I have had mine for over a year and it works great. Works on the pressure of the fluid.

[zeke1883]

So BanjoDave......

Which switch do I buy?? The single or the dual bleed??
Need response quick as we are leaving on a trip in 2 weeks and I want to get the part and get it installed so we have a brake light when applying the front brake.

Appreciate your response.....

[zeke1883]

I am dreadfully sorry, I called you banjodave ........

I got this damn brake thing on my mind. Of course I meant PORTdave.

You know if someone had a photo of how this freakin thing is supposed to install, it would certainly help A LOT. I am not all that mechanically minded, and I would guess I am going to have to go to my mechanic friend to get this figured out, it would be nice if I could do it myself though.

Main thing is which switch do I need Single or Dual????

[SqDancerLynn1]

If you install it at the master anh have one line You need the single banjo. If you install it under the tripple where two lines connect Use the dual banjo. Location doesn't matter it just depends on how many lines their are where you are installing it

[zeke1883]

Thanks, for the info, I was looking at my manual, and I think I understand this thing now. On the master cylinder, there is a threaded bolt (the banjo bolt) that screws into the master cylinder, and the circular "doodad" (don't know the proper term for it) that the hose connects to slides over this new bolt that has the switch attached to it. Then by tightening the bolt, it seals up this circular part so no fluid drips out. Then the fluid goes out the hole on the banjo bolt just like it did before, only now there is a switch incorporated into the whole thing, with wires, which attach to my connections in the harness for the old brake light switch.

DUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHHHH.......

I told you I was rather stupid about this whole thing. Thank you to everyone that has tried to explain this thing, I now know which switch to order and I think this is something that I can do myself. I know if I get air in the lines I have to bleed the brakes then.

Is this something that can be done without losing all the fluid and adding air into the lines? OR when you remove this bolt, is that by itself going to let air get in the lines regardless? Just trying to learn something here.

THANK YOU.

[portdave]

Thanks, for the info, I was looking at my manual, and I think I understand this thing now. On the master cylinder, there is a threaded bolt (the banjo bolt) that screws into the master cylinder, and the circular "doodad" (don't know the proper term for it) that the hose connects to slides over this new bolt that has the switch attached to it. Then by tightening the bolt, it seals up this circular part so no fluid drips out. Then the fluid goes out the hole on the banjo bolt just like it did before, only now there is a switch incorporated into the whole thing, with wires, which attach to my connections in the harness for the old brake light switch.

DUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHHHH.......

I told you I was rather stupid about this whole thing. Thank you to everyone that has tried to explain this thing, I now know which switch to order and I think this is something that I can do myself. I know if I get air in the lines I have to bleed the brakes then.

Is this something that can be done without losing all the fluid and adding air into the lines? OR when you remove this bolt, is that by itself going to let air get in the lines regardless? Just trying to learn something here.

THANK YOU.

Sounds like you got good info already. I did the single one. If you do it quick you might not have to do much bleeding. I was able to do mine. If you need to bleed, it helped me to do the bleeding and then pull on the brake lever and tie it up over night with a bungee or something. This helped get the last bit of air out of the line. Good luck.

[sdodson]

Does anyone know if the Brake switch from http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...fCatId=&mmyId= will fit my GS1150ES Model? I pulled mine apart to clean it and it looks the same as this one. put after calling Dennis Kirt and finding the OEM #57460-49300 on this item, They didn't show it going to a GS1150ES Model. I called Suzuki and they show OEM # 57460-33700 Switch Assy, Stop for my GS1150ES model. i WOULD RATHER SPEND $9.00 dollars from Dennis Kirk vs $29.95 from Suzuki. Any help would be much appreciated.