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    GK fork oil spec

    Just making sure.....the fork oil capacity specified in the owners manual is the amount for each leg, right?
    I am NOT looking forward to reinstalling those fork caps. It wouldn't be so bad if the air valve was in the center or if there was a flat surface to push down on but noooooooooooo.
    Willie in TN
    Common sense has become so uncommon that I consider it a super power.


    Present Stable includes:
    '74 GT750 Resto-mod I've owned since '79
    '83 GS1100E (The best E I've ever enjoyed, Joe Nardy's former bike)
    '82 GS1100G Resto project

    #2
    I have not done anything with GK air caps, but I can pass on a tip gathered from the Gold Wing board.

    Before you install the springs, thread the cap into the tube, paying particular attention to where the threads first start to grab. Use a sharpie to mark this location. Now, when you have the cap on top of the spring and are trying to push it all together, you can align the marks, knowing that the first little bit of turning will start engaging the threads.

    Hopefully this works on the GK, too.


    Oh, yes, the amount of oil specified is for each leg. Your best bet is to slightly over-fill each leg, then use a suction device with a tube of the proper length to draw off the excess fluid. This will get the proper level in each fork tube. This is more important if you did not fully disassemble and flush out the tubes. There might be some oil left in the passages, and simply adding the 'correct amount' of fluid will actually over-fill them.

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

    Comment


      #3
      Also, the air valve is just a schrader valve & you can remove it to put the caps on & then just re-install it before you lay the forks down. The whole valve assembly just screws into the cap. Makes life MUCH easier! Ray.

      Comment


        #4
        The amount of fork oil is totally irrelevant.

        The fork oil LEVEL is what's crucial.

        Dump in a little too much fork oil, then suction it out to the proper spec. This is normally 140mm from the top with the forks collapsed all the way and the springs out.
        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
        2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
        Eat more venison.

        Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

        Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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        Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Steve View Post
          ... Your best bet is to slightly over-fill each leg, then use a suction device with a tube of the proper length to draw off the excess fluid. This will get the proper level in each fork tube. ...
          Originally posted by bwringer View Post
          The amount of fork oil is totally irrelevant. The fork oil LEVEL is what's crucial. Dump in a little too much fork oil, then suction it out to the proper spec. ...
          There seems to be an ECHO ECHO ECHO in this room.

          That must mean it's pretty important.
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
          Family Portrait
          Siblings and Spouses
          Mom's first ride
          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

          Comment


            #6
            As you press on the fork cap turn it counter clockwise until it clicks and then tighten. Don't cross thread!
            Oh yeah, measure the fork oil to the top of the fork with it fully compressed with the springs out. My L model is 10.2 inches.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for the responses guys. I'm not sure what rapidray meant by laying the forks down but the idea of making sure the fork level is correct vs the qty is a good one. Does anyone know what the oil level from the top is supposed to be for the GK? Is 140mm a rule of thumb for GS's in general or typical?
              As to being able to remove the air valve.....I was definitely going to do that. Its the shape of the cap that makes the GK (and others?) a hassles. I've found that having a reasonably flat surface on top makes it so much easier to place a small piece of wood between the cap surface and the underside of the handlebar to keep it depressed while you turn it CC till it clicks then clockwise to screw it in.
              Now about that oil level
              Willie
              Common sense has become so uncommon that I consider it a super power.


              Present Stable includes:
              '74 GT750 Resto-mod I've owned since '79
              '83 GS1100E (The best E I've ever enjoyed, Joe Nardy's former bike)
              '82 GS1100G Resto project

              Comment


                #8
                Can't help you with the level, but here is a starting point that I found in the GK Owner's Manual on BassCliff's little site:

                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
                Siblings and Spouses
                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Willie,

                  Glad to help.

                  From factory manual, GK supplement:
                  Fork oil type: #15
                  Capacity per leg: 363 ml (12.7 US OZ)
                  Oil Level: 138.5 (5.4 inch)
                  Air Pressure: 0.7 kg/cm2 (10 psi)

                  When might we see complete pictures of that bike and paint job?
                  .
                  http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
                  Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
                  GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


                  https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Bingo! Thanks Redman. Thats exactly the info I was looking for. Interesting that the oil qty is different in the supplement than in the original manual. Just outa curiosity, I think I'll start with 12.3 oz, measure and record the level and then add .4 oz and measure and record the level again. I'll be fairly confident that there's no residual fluid in either leg to begin with as I drained them over a month ago. I hope I can remove the springs without removing the bars. Yeah, I admit, I'm lazy.
                    As to when I'll have my GK together and pics posted....I'm gonna save you the effort of adding the quotes when/if you have to take me to task on this ....lol... "the GK will be complete (with regard to paint) and pics posted by the end of January." I'm looking at the finished trunk and side cover as I type this and I'm as happy with it now as I was when the striper (thats striper and not stripper) finished pinstriping the flames in silver.
                    Willie
                    PS
                    Today I thought about replacing the black cording/piping on the seat with blue to compliment the paint scheme. However, the seat is in perfect original condidtion and as incredible as my upholsteryperson is, I'm not very keen on removing the cover.
                    Common sense has become so uncommon that I consider it a super power.


                    Present Stable includes:
                    '74 GT750 Resto-mod I've owned since '79
                    '83 GS1100E (The best E I've ever enjoyed, Joe Nardy's former bike)
                    '82 GS1100G Resto project

                    Comment

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