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    Front fork removal

    I'm trying to remove the front forks. I've completely loosened the pinch bolts at the top and bottom of each fork but they don't seem to want to budge. Am I missing something? The shop manual (as I take it) just says the top and bottom pinch bolts are holding the fork but they're stubborn. I'm guessing this is just rust, I was going to hit the area around the pinch bolts with PB Blaster and give the top of the forks a whack with a rubber mallet. That a sound idea?

    I've never done anything like this. Getting the front wheel off without a tragedy made me giddy . If the question is obvious I apologize. Doing my own work is a new experience for me. -nick

    #2
    Hey Nick,
    I can't help with that question, but I know that others can and will respond here. I just relate to your newfound situation as your own bike mechanic. Like you I depended for years on bike shops until I found that they just weren't giving the work on my 27 year-old machine the attention I thought it deserved.

    These folks are very knowledgable and will help you every step of the way if you ask. I've got a new confidence in the stuff (carbs, cables and electrics) that I worked on this summer with the help of the GSR.

    Cheers, Ted

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Clumzi View Post
      I'm trying to remove the front forks. I've completely loosened the pinch bolts at the top and bottom of each fork but they don't seem to want to budge. Am I missing something? The shop manual (as I take it) just says the top and bottom pinch bolts are holding the fork but they're stubborn. I'm guessing this is just rust, I was going to hit the area around the pinch bolts with PB Blaster and give the top of the forks a whack with a rubber mallet. That a sound idea?

      I've never done anything like this. Getting the front wheel off without a tragedy made me giddy . If the question is obvious I apologize. Doing my own work is a new experience for me. -nick

      How man bolts are there 6 or 4
      the fiche looks like 2 ma be hidden under the decorative trim thwit suzuki on it

      Comment


        #4
        This is a pretty common problem but something that we can all struggle with at times

        what you will probably find is that if you remove the top yoke the forks will become easier to move through the bottom one & if not then you can very gently prize the slot open slightly while pulling & turning the fork leg

        once you get some movement it will become quite easy

        Oops quick edit if you have removed all the bolts of course as above lol

        Comment


          #5
          Twist them to break them loose from the rubber bushings. If you have the nut on the top of the tube try to gently turn them. Mine came out OK but after replacing the rubber bits the yoke had to be loosened to get them back in.
          82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
          81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
          83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
          06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
          AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Flaggo60 View Post
            Hey Nick,
            I can't help with that question, but I know that others can and will respond here. I just relate to your newfound situation as your own bike mechanic. Like you I depended for years on bike shops until I found that they just weren't giving the work on my 27 year-old machine the attention I thought it deserved.

            These folks are very knowledgable and will help you every step of the way if you ask. I've got a new confidence in the stuff (carbs, cables and electrics) that I worked on this summer with the help of the GSR.

            Cheers, Ted
            I'm not sure I would even consider doing this work without the forum here. I certainly would never have tackled the carbs (twice!) without the cleaning .pdf and folks here.

            I'll try prying a bit, along with something to grease everything up. -nick

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Clumzi View Post
              I'm not sure I would even consider doing this work without the forum here. -nick
              I'm with you there, friend. I bought this bike because I knew I could get a $500 bike under the wife's radar. Of course, I've doubled that in parts...

              This site has really given me the confidence to try and fix things that I thought were way beyond my skills. Yesterday I replaced the water pump in my Ford Exploder. I figure, if I can replace my valve shims, and sync my carbs, I can dig into the car with no problem. It only took 6 hours and 8 trips to Autozone, but I got 'er done! If BassCliff had a step by step tutorial with pics, it would have gone a lot faster.

              I'd rather be riding than wrenching, but it certainly gives you a new love for your machine if you've rebuilt it. It feels good to make something work...
              -=T=-

              Comment


                #8
                Do you have the wheel, fender and calipers off? There is one binch bolt at the very top and two at the bottom of the triple tree. Use a twisting motion to break them loose. Keep at it they will come out.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                  Do you have the wheel, fender and calipers off? There is one binch bolt at the very top and two at the bottom of the triple tree. Use a twisting motion to break them loose. Keep at it they will come out.
                  lol, thanks, but I found my own way . I found a new use for a carb gang plate. God I wish I had a digital camera to show you guys pictures. I tried the twisting motion, but I don't think Andre the Giant could have twisted those bitches off. I got a crescent wrench and broke the seal via the hex head on the top of the forks but still couldn't for the life of me twist and yank from the bottom. That's when I took the gang plate from the spare set of 650 carbs I have laying around here and used it as a punch and hammered the bastards out . Actually, for such a sketchy idea it worked great. Now I can't get the new forks on there (new thread in a minute ). -nick

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I love it. Brute force!
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Jam a large screwdriver into the upper and lower triple tree slots where the pinch bolts reside. This forces the clamp to open just a bit so the tubes slide out easier.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Road_Clam View Post
                        Jam a large screwdriver into the upper and lower triple tree slots where the pinch bolts reside. This forces the clamp to open just a bit so the tubes slide out easier.
                        Good call. That's how I got the new forks back in, by wedging the upper pinch bolt with a screwdriver and greasing the top of the forks up a bit. -nick

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hi, Mr. Brown did you try www.explorerforum to get your info? Great place for ranger broncos and explorers, and no I'm not trying to change to subject. Its the only way to go to get some great info. There are a couple of ford sites I use and a couple of bike sites also. This one has a great amount of info. I am in same boat as you, only a parts replacer. I am not afraid to ask beg or coerse people for help. so keep chugging along it has got to get better.

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