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GS1000 clutch hub rebuild
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I don't think you need a billet.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Originally posted by chef1366 View PostI don't think you need a billet.
But, I'd check on the OEM, because I think it got upgraded along the way
And the hub nut is prone to coming loose as Bruce says1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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Originally posted by Big T View PostAnd the hub nut is prone to coming loose as Bruce says
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I knew a guy who chased an engine wobble and it turned out to be an off balanced clutch hub.
It can happen.
I took his advice and had mine balanced just in case.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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another thought
the bearings in the cases that hold the transmission input and output shafts are another source for engine noise / wobble.
they are hi enough not to be bathed in oil all the time. they do rust with condensation and other acids that dwell inside engines. the rust causes spalding and leads up to bad bearing surfaces.
and the case of the clutch basket out of balance. it is on a steel plug and needle bearing tightly squished in a helical gear.
trans shaft spacer and needle bearing would have to have excessive clearances to allow the space for noise and wobble a lot like the loose main nut .theory and findings also the mass of the basket is so much less than the crank/flywheel weight.
now if the input trans shaft bearing is going bad the space for an engine wobble would come from there. shaking the complete clutch/trans input shaft in the bearings and hammering on the crank gear.
getting the carbs set right will get most people's idling clutch noise quieter.
after that you weld up the backing plate. after that the engine comes out and apart.
me I use a 1100 clutch and engine case spacer. billet basket modified inner hub. still use the side gear and 1000 ratio better trans shaft bearings are a must!! and sadly forgotten/neglected stock is not good enough.
MTC is the place.SUZUKI , There is no substitute
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Originally posted by trippivot View Postthe bearings in the cases that hold the transmission input and output shafts are another source for engine noise / wobble.
they are hi enough not to be bathed in oil all the time. they do rust with condensation and other acids that dwell inside engines. the rust causes spalding and leads up to bad bearing surfaces.
and the case of the clutch basket out of balance. it is on a steel plug and needle bearing tightly squished in a helical gear.
trans shaft spacer and needle bearing would have to have excessive clearances to allow the space for noise and wobble a lot like the loose main nut .theory and findings also the mass of the basket is so much less than the crank/flywheel weight.
now if the input trans shaft bearing is going bad the space for an engine wobble would come from there. shaking the complete clutch/trans input shaft in the bearings and hammering on the crank gear.
getting the carbs set right will get most people's idling clutch noise quieter.
after that you weld up the backing plate. after that the engine comes out and apart.
me I use a 1100 clutch and engine case spacer. billet basket modified inner hub. still use the side gear and 1000 ratio better trans shaft bearings are a must!! and sadly forgotten/neglected stock is not good enough.
MTC is the place.78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
82 Kat 1000 Project
05 CRF450x
10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike
P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.
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Always!!!!!!!!78 GS1000 Yosh replica racer project
82 Kat 1000 Project
05 CRF450x
10 990 ADV-R The big dirt bike
P.S I don't check PM to often, email me if you need me.
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doctorgonzo
Originally posted by renobruce View PostMo money, mo money, mo money.....
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to many chef's in the kitchen on this thread...
look for used..
why wouldnt a person buy a used billet if the price was right?
understand...a billet basket stops most of the side load.
a billet basket comes with a HD kit already installed if you find someone that has removed there's for whatever reason/slider/straight cut ect....
(((not just a billet basket))) a billet assy. for a 8v. 1000.
why wouldnt a person buy a used a HD basket if the price was right?
if a wobble comes from a basket...that means the basket wasnt clamped correctly or there was bad parts used on the rebuild.
a bone stock 1000 can sling a basket out through the top or bottem of the cases.
a HD basket is good insurance...period.
and the parts to rebuild a basket isnt 100.00 anymore...nope.
so the labor isnt 200.00
300.00 is fair to have yours rebuilt total cost.
but...
i like used stuff.
look around and find a deal.
it is winter, no hurry
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Mine is an Ebay special.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
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