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Cam chain tensioner ?

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    Cam chain tensioner ?

    I was reading my FSM and came to the part about the cam chain tensioner... Well it concerned me because I removed my tensioner to replace the gasket and just bolted it back in place. I figured the adjustments were set and I shouldn't mess with them, feeling the tension between the cams showed the chain was plenty tight.

    Should I re-set the tensioner? Thanks.

    #2
    There should be a procedure in the manual for re-setting it.

    Comment


      #3
      If you pull the tensioner out of the engine without setting the locknut, the plunger will spring out to full stroke (assuming your tensioner is functioning properly that is). When reinstalling the tensioner it will be overly extended and the cam chain will be too tight. I suggest you pull the tensioner back out and push the plunger in and set the locknut. After you install the tensioner you can release the locknut and the plunger will spring out to the proper tension.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        I will have to look in the fsm further tomorrow, I saw the procedure for taking it apart and checking it for proper function. But not for its setting.

        Thanks.

        Comment


          #5
          Loosen the lock nut and tighten the lock screw on the side. Pull the tensioner. Loosen the lock screw and push in the piston and turn the knurly knob at the same time till it takes it in the whole way in. Tighten the lock screw now. Install the tensioner and unscrew the lock screw about a 1/4 turn and you'll hear a POP. Tighten the lock nut while holding the screw to keep it a 1/4 turn out so the spring will keep tension on the piston and the chain.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            Perhaps this will help. It's a tutorial for rebuilding the cam chain tensioner from bwringer.

            Larry D
            1980 GS450S
            1981 GS450S
            2003 Heritage Softtail

            Comment


              #7
              Take the stock tensioner & throw it in the trash. Then call APE & order a manual tensioner & you will never look back! Ray.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                Take the stock tensioner & throw it in the trash. Then call APE & order a manual tensioner & you will never look back! Ray.
                Damn I want one, but they don't make them for the 1000 only the 1100 (as is true of most of their stuff). I understand it, it's a much more popular bike to build out, but still sucks.

                Comment


                  #9
                  does the knob goes all the way in when you lose the screw?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by CB900SS View Post
                    I will have to look in the fsm further tomorrow, I saw the procedure for taking it apart and checking it for proper function. But not for its setting.

                    Thanks.
                    Take it out, take it apart and check it, clean it off, reoil and reinstall. It is over 25 years old and could use some TLC.

                    Many here don't like the stock tensioner, but more still have it functioning perfectly.
                    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                    2007 DRz 400S
                    1999 ATK 490ES
                    1994 DR 350SES

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I guess the first thing I need to do is order another gasket for it.

                      Unfortunately my financial situation right now won't allow me to buy a manual tensioner, but thanks for the suggestions. The bike only has 8,xxx miles on it... But I guess its more about the age of it. I am sure servicing the stock tensioner would be a good idea, I just wish I would have thought about it when I had it out for the new gasket.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                        Loosen the lock nut and tighten the lock screw on the side. Pull the tensioner. Loosen the lock screw and push in the piston and turn the knurly knob at the same time till it takes it in the whole way in. Tighten the lock screw now. Install the tensioner and unscrew the lock screw about a 1/4 turn and you'll hear a POP. Tighten the lock nut while holding the screw to keep it a 1/4 turn out so the spring will keep tension on the piston and the chain.
                        After reading this I am even more concerned with what I have done.

                        Thanks, I see how to set it now.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I bet that new gasket can be reused unless you super-glued it on.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                            I bet that new gasket can be reused unless you super-glued it on.
                            I was thinking the same thing, especially if it was slightly greased.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I can't remember if I used gaskacinch or not... I guess it all depends on how the gasket looks when I take it apart. Thanks again for the replies!

                              Comment

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