Clutch won't engage

[chef1366]

Does the inner hub spin with the steels and fibers removed? If not you have either a bad bearing (froze) or it is pinched off.

[glstine]

Does the inner hub spin with the steels and fibers removed? If not you have either a bad bearing (froze) or it is pinched off.

Didn't check this. If this is the case can this be replaced without splitting the crankcase?

[chef1366]

Very easy to replace. You just need to remove the hub nut and remove the inner and outer hub.
Bend the lock washer out of the way and get a 32mm socket with a breaker bar or a pipe slipped over a ratchet and while holding the rear brake break the nut loose.
If the inner hub does spin freely after loosening the hub nut someone put the spacer washers on in the wrong order. If it doesn't inspect the bearing for rust or grime build up.

[glstine]

If I'm understanding correctly you're talking about parts 3, 4 and 8, right?

[chef1366]

If I'm understanding correctly you're talking about parts 3, 4 and 8, right?

Yes
I hope you have the clutch rod adjusted to seperate the fibers and steels enough to break the clutch free.

[glstine]

The pressure plate pushes out at least 3/16" when the clutch is pulled in, that should be enough I would think.

[glstine]

I wonder if there isn't some more sinister going on. If the inner hub were binding I wouldn't expect it to creep forward when the clutch is pulled in and the start button is hit (I know I didn't say anything about this before), unless the clutch doesn't work the way I think it does. Since I just cleaned all the plates I wouldn't think there would be enough friction to creep it forward with the pressure plate off of the friction plates.

I will take it all apart and have a look at it. Anything else I should be looking for?

[trippivot]

how thick of oil are you using? and did you check to see if there was any warp on the steel plates?
blue heat marks are something to look for also. on the steel plates

[glstine]

I put in valvoline motorcyle oil 10w40. Didn't notice any heat marks on the steel plates and just did somewhat of a visual inspection for warpage, I don't know that I have a flat enough surface for the 0.1 mm tolerance to use a feeler gauge (maybe I can use the dining room table if the wife isn't home).

The bike has been started a few times in the last few weeks, but it hasn't been ridden in probably over a year.

[glstine]

OK, I think I've got this now. The crankshaft spins the outer hub of the clutch basket. When the pressure plate is engaged through friction the plates turn the inner hub which spins the final drive. When the pressure plate is off the outer hub still spins but the inner hub doesn't (at least isn't forced to). However, the inner hub goes through the outer hub and has the previously mentioned bearing so the two can spin independently. If the bearing is binding then they will spin as a single unit regardless of the plates.

[trippivot]

at least it is really easy to get into. I'd get a few in town miles on the clutch before getting too excited on how it grabbs or slipps.
kinda knock the storage sticky-ness off of the working surfaces.

[glstine]

I was just trying to get an understanding of how the clutch works and how that bearing binding could be the cause of my troubles. Still need to fix it, but at least it makes sense now.