Crashed GS550 this morning due to high rpm in throttle! Need some help...

[supergrafx]

Sounds like you don’t have a proper pull-pull throttle cable setup which is appropriate for VM carbs. Finding a set of cables that are short enough for use with clip-ons is going to be a challenge. Not sure but maybe the cables from a 1979 GS1000S could be used? That model has low bars and VM carbs so it should have a two cable setup like you need.

Sweet! If anyone got access to one of these, I get paid next week!

[cloudbreakmd]

Gabe,
Peter did not install a return cable. If I remember correctly, he only installed a pull cable.

[tkent02]

Another thing about cables, they need just a tiny bit of slack in the inner cable to work freely. You should be able to twist the throttle grip just a tad without moving the throttle on the carbs, similar to the freeplay in the clutch cable. There is a tension adjuster on both throttle cables, with a little tinkering you should be able to get everything to work smoothly. Incorrect cable routing is often the culprit. Check the routing pictures and correct adjustment in the Suzuki shop manual. The throttle should definitely snap shut with a "Clack" if you twist the throttle open and let it go. Make sure that there is no change in RPM at idle as the bars are turned to the stop one way and the other.
A kink in either outer cable or a frayed inner cable can interfere with this smooth easy operation too, as can some wire or hose or something in the area where the throttle parts move on the carbs.

Also have you lubed the cables?

[supergrafx]

Gabe,
Peter did not install a return cable. If I remember correctly, he only installed a pull cable.

So this is bad right? Since I need a pull-pull cable? And a short one...

Sounds like you don’t have a proper pull-pull throttle cable setup which is appropriate for VM carbs. Finding a set of cables that are short enough for use with clip-ons is going to be a challenge. Not sure but maybe the cables from a 1979 GS1000S could be used? That model has low bars and VM carbs so it should have a two cable setup like you need.

I found a 1979 gs1000 throttle cable off of fleabay but not one from the S model.... I guess that would be too long?

If your bike is sporting aftermarket low-rise bars, you may also be in need of a shorter cable. I would remove the tank, and see if the cable moves freely in its sheath.

Then take cable off of the carbs and see how the clock spring is holding up on the carb assy. If the carbs snap just fine without a T-cable attached, replace cable and make sure you get the proper size and route it so that it does not bind or keep the plates open.

I was hoping I would not have to take off the carbs.....

Another thing about cables, they need just a tiny bit of slack in the inner cable to work freely. You should be able to twist the throttle grip just a tad without moving the throttle on the carbs, similar to the freeplay in the clutch cable. There is a tension adjuster on both throttle cables, with a little tinkering you should be able to get everything to work smoothly. Incorrect cable routing is often the culprit. Check the routing pictures and correct adjustment in the Suzuki shop manual. The throttle should definitely snap shut with a "Clack" if you twist the throttle open and let it go. Make sure that there is no change in RPM at idle as the bars are turned to the stop one way and the other.
A kink in either outer cable or a frayed inner cable can interfere with this smooth easy operation too, as can some wire or hose or something in the area where the throttle parts move on the carbs.

Also have you lubed the cables?

Have not lubed the cables, and prob the mechanic didn't and the po not either (just an educated guess...).

[bwringer]

New OEM cables are the best quality, and not really more expensive than aftermarket (only a buck or two more). However, they will likely be too long as noted earlier.

Please don't try to ride until this is sorted out -- that dipstick mechanic basically tried to kill you by remote control this morning. Glad you're OK!

Throttle cables are very simple mechanisms, but there's absolutely no room for error.

I've always been able to re-route throttle and clutch cables that end up too long -- you have to experiment and test to find the best position and make sure they don't bind when you move the handlebars.

You'll need to remove the tank and take a look.

[cloudbreakmd]

Gabe,
Don't take the carbs off. The spring is fine. I checked those carbs when I have them to you to make sure they were not frozen up.
And no, you don't absolutely need to have a push cable.

[supergrafx]

New OEM cables are the best quality, and not really more expensive than aftermarket (only a buck or two more). However, they will likely be too long as noted earlier.

Please don't try to ride until this is sorted out -- that dipstick mechanic basically tried to kill you by remote control this morning. Glad you're OK!

Throttle cables are very simple mechanisms, but there's absolutely no room for error.

I've always been able to re-route throttle and clutch cables that end up too long -- you have to experiment and test to find the best position and make sure they don't bind when you move the handlebars.

You'll need to remove the tank and take a look.

I'll remove the tank this weekend and take a look and see about the possible binding. Thank you for the kind comments. It could have been a lot worse. I'm just glad it happened in front of my house and not a busy intersection. I'm not going to ride the bike unfortunatelly until I fix this problem and moreover everything else. Who knows what bolts need to be tightened, ect... I've got lots of time this winter to learn about it and am sure I will have plenty more questions for you guys along the way. Might as well paint the engine too, just to get to know the machine.

Gabe,
Don't take the carbs off. The spring is fine. I checked those carbs when I have them to you to make sure they were not frozen up.
And no, you don't absolutely need to have a push cable.

Navi, if I don't need a push cable, won't I need to manually need to throttle down instead of the throttle snapping back upon release? What Ed is saying makes me think that I need one cable to open and one cable to close the carbs? Sorry for my ignorance, just a little confused. :/

[cloudbreakmd]

It's okay to ask questions. No apologies needed.

The push cable is a backup in case your pull cable breaks to spring the throttle back. A lot of people delete that cable anyway. But the throttle mechanism on the carbs are already rigged to spring back to idle is there is no pressure on the mechanism..

[tkent02]

Navi, if I don't need a push cable, won't I need to manually need to throttle down instead of the throttle snapping back upon release? What Ed is saying makes me think that I need one cable to open and one cable to close the carbs? Sorry for my ignorance, just a little confused. :/

The cables are nicknamed wrong, there's no pushing. One cable pulls the throttles open, the other pulls the throttles closed. The second one is not strictly neccesary as there should be a fairly stout spring closing the throttles too, normally this works fine. The pull closed cable is just a safety thing, I believe. I don't see any advantage to running only one, but some people do it that way.

At least if the pull open cable breaks you have a spare already there.

[supergrafx]

The cables are nicknamed wrong, there's no pushing. One cable pulls the throttles open, the other pulls the throttles closed. The second one is not strictly neccesary as there should be a fairly stout spring closing the throttles too, normally this works fine. The pull closed cable is just a safety thing, I believe. I don't see any advantage to running only one, but some people do it that way.

At least if the pull open cable breaks you have a spare already there.

After what happened today, I am all for having a back up. Even though, and I trust Navi, the spring is good. It makes sense that if Suzuki engineered the cable to have two, then that should be the case. I gave the guy that rebuilt my carbs, two set of carbs, one from Navi which were my bike's original one's and supposably in better shape, and another set which were rebuilt earlier but supposably in worse shape. However, the guy that rebuilt the carbs only gave me three of the carb bodies back from the old set. They were in pieces when I got them back. I got a total of 4 of the carb chambers (the lower fuel basins) back but only three bodies, so I'm not sure what was used, which spring was used, ect., ect, and don't know if the carb parts were mixed base on the condition, ect.... I guess none of this matters now. What has been done, has been done.

[supergrafx]

Thanks for the help everyone. I am now leaving for work and don't have internet at home so won't be able to check back with GSR until Monday. Have a wonderful weekend and enjoy yourselves and your bikes!

~Gabe

[SqDancerLynn1]

Choke hanging open or miss adjusted can cause high RPM too! Make sure their is some play in both cables

[Nessism]

Choke hanging open or miss adjusted can cause high RPM too! Make sure their is some play in both cables

The early 550's did not have a choke cable, just a lever to push on the side of the carbs. Regardless, Lynn has a good point; please check the choke as well to make sure it is not hanging open.

[robertbarr]

It makes sense that if Suzuki engineered the cable to have two, then that should be the case.

It's always refreshing to read common sense like this. As opposed to the tiresome game of "let's second-guess the engineers"...

[cloudbreakmd]

The cables are nicknamed wrong, there's no pushing. One cable pulls the throttles open, the other pulls the throttles closed. The second one is not strictly neccesary as there should be a fairly stout spring closing the throttles too, normally this works fine. The pull closed cable is just a safety thing, I believe. I don't see any advantage to running only one, but some people do it that way.

At least if the pull open cable breaks you have a spare already there.

Not to argue but I believe I labeled them correctly. Have a read here:

http://www.motionpro.com/tech/articles/throttles_and_throttle_kits/

Next to last paragraph labeled "Notes."

Also check the choke lever. Make sure it's doing what its supposed to. Call me and we can talk.