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    #16
    Originally posted by Road_Clam View Post
    Do NOT buy performance barnett or APE springs, you won't be able to pull the clutch lever in without LH bionic powergrip....

    There is NO need for race springs on your everyday street driven motorcycle...
    +1....Also worth adding, is that your clutch cable will be the next casualty, in short order..... apparently, they don't last too long with HD springs. I'm still running the original OEM cable with stock springs, but will probably change it just to be on the safe side this year.

    Tony.
    '82 GS1100E



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      #17
      One reason a clutch could be slipping is due to using 10-30 wt oil which contains friction modifiers, aka molybdenum disulfide.
      The stuff will ruin wet clutches, especially an older one which might be a little glazed or hardened from age/heat.

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        #18
        I went with a barrett kevlar clutch for 99 dollars, hooks up great. The springs were a dollar each so replacing them is a good idea. I cut a new gasket from gasket paper I bought at an autoparts store. 6 dollars for enough paper to do three gaskets.
        1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
        1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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          #19
          Originally posted by shadowfist View Post
          I was riding my GS750 this morning (first decent day in a month or two) and i noticed that my clutch is slipping a little. it isn't that bad only when I open the throttle just about all the way in 4th or 5th gear. it is also noticable if i drop the clutch while changing gears, it takes about a 1/2 second for it to catch again.
          When my 81-750's engine is not yet up to normal temp the clutch will slip similar to your's under big throttle. It will also slip somewhat when using Synthetic oil as opposed to OTC Suzuki oil. It will also slip if you have too much oil in the case. On center stand full should be just over the low mark when cold. In higher gears you are putting alot of torque and HP load on the clutch and that is the most likely time for it to slip with full HP applied. Do you blip the throttle on downshift to equal rpms and avoid slippage?
          Or you can just replace the springs to overcome the minor issue. You can go for years without this making you walk home.

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            #20
            i'm trying to post pics of my drive/driven clutch plates but am having issues with photobucket and the virus. Are there any other ways of posting pics? I don't have a URL site.
            1979 GS850G
            2004 SV650N track bike
            2005 TT-R125 pit bike
            LRRS #246 / Northeast Cycles / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersport

            http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k443/tas850g/

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              #21
              i hope these pictures come out well enough.

              How do these clutch plates look?





              1979 GS850G
              2004 SV650N track bike
              2005 TT-R125 pit bike
              LRRS #246 / Northeast Cycles / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersport

              http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k443/tas850g/

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                #22
                I just thought I would update you all.
                I was chatting with a co-worker the day before i was going to open the clutch up and put some washers behind the springs and he mentioned that it might just be because the clutch lever was to tight and he said that there should be a little bit of play before the clutch starts dis-engaging. and i went and checked and sure enough there was NO play in my clutch lever.
                I guess the clutch was never fully releasing anyway now i can go full on in 4th and get no slipping! :-D horay! it also doesn't slide as much when i change gears without fully letting off the gas.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by shadowfist View Post
                  sure enough there was NO play in my clutch lever.
                  This thread never needed to go any further than the #2 post

                  Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                  First check the two cluch adjustments, if either is too tight it will cause slipping.
                  82 1100 EZ (red)

                  "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by bonanzadave View Post
                    This thread never needed to go any further than the #2 post
                    sorry when i read 'clutch adjustments' i thought you meant something inside the clutch assembly i'm still (obviously) new when it comes to this mechanical stuff.

                    i've had my car for close to ten years and never done even as much as changing the oil myself, my bikes are my first venture into the world of mechanics. i'm learning a ton but I can tell its going to take years to make up for the years of inexperience. course i already do more mechanically than one of my friends who has driven harleys for years.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by shadowfist View Post
                      sorry when i read 'clutch adjustments' i thought you meant something inside the clutch assembly i'm still (obviously) new when it comes to this mechanical stuff.
                      Hey, No Prob. Now you know. The next time someone asks about clutch slipping you need to jump in and say....."Heres what I did"

                      The GSR.....learning from other peoples adventures
                      82 1100 EZ (red)

                      "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

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