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vm carbs, spot the difference

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    vm carbs, spot the difference




    see it? look closer. why that one different? its my carb #3.


    HINT: it isnt the drain.

    #2
    The float bowl is cracked?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      And your point is ????

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        #4
        no gentlemen, its the pilot fuel screw (i think), it looks different. the other 3 i have are shorter and sit more flush with the boss, where as the screw for #3 it longer above the threads. i dont know if it was just replaced with a mismatched screw by the PO, or if its the way it is supposed to be.

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          #5

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            #6
            Strange looking pilot fuel screw. Long head should be easy to reach with the carbs installed though.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #7
              My last post was a sarky one sorry, i did spot the air screw

              The air screw length above the cone shaped tip does not really matter its the length & angle of the machined point thats important as long as those are all the same & undamaged no problems

              The air screw in question has been replaced btw

              tone

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                #8
                thanks for clearing that up. to the naked eye, it seems the same under the threads. length, taper, tip, diameter. guess im good to go, then.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by tone View Post
                  My last post was a sarky one sorry, i did spot the air screw

                  The air screw length above the cone shaped tip does not really matter its the length & angle of the machined point thats important as long as those are all the same & undamaged no problems

                  The air screw in question has been replaced btw

                  tone
                  Sorry to nit pick but those are FUEL screws, the air screws are on the top of the carb bodies.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                    #10
                    Yeah, there's a lot of confusion about which screws are which.

                    Your photos are great illustrations of the fuel screws.

                    That longer one with the knurled head sure would make adjustments easier. I wonder what it is from?
                    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                    2007 DRz 400S
                    1999 ATK 490ES
                    1994 DR 350SES

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                      #11
                      im not sure. i did some poking around at mikesxs and saw some similar, but not exact, and probably becuase its for astock mikuni BS38 CV carb.

                      fuel idle mixture screw, 256 type:


                      fuel idle mixture screw, 584 type:

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                        #12
                        i'd like the extended fuel screws on mine. It sure would make adjustments much easier!
                        1979 GS850G
                        2004 SV650N track bike
                        2005 TT-R125 pit bike
                        LRRS #246 / Northeast Cycles / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersport

                        http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k443/tas850g/

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                          Sorry to nit pick but those are FUEL screws, the air screws are on the top of the carb bodies.

                          correct !

                          The same things apply though

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by tas850g View Post
                            i'd like the extended fuel screws on mine. It sure would make adjustments much easier!

                            Amen to that, just tweak it with tank etc still on... in past i have used those bit driver thingys, (you know all the diff things only an inch long that u fit in the screwdriver)

                            butr that would make life easy!

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                              #15
                              K&L replacements are long like that.
                              SUZUKI , There is no substitute

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