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question on changing fork seals.
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gord_s
question on changing fork seals.
Hi, I'm just changing the seals on an 83 550e, I've got one fork out, do I need to disassemble them to remove the seal or will the old seal pry up and slide up the tube. I've got the snap ring and washer out so the old seal is right there but doesn't want to pry up and out, I'm trying to be gentle to not scratch the tube, though I better stop and find out if I'm just being to nice to it or do I have to split the forks to get it out. ThanksTags: None
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I have seen some reports where a hole was drilled and a sheet metal screw or drywall screw was installed then pried against to pull the seal.
Personally, I would rather not take the chance of nicking the fork tube by doing that. You are better off taking them completely apart. That also gives you the chance to inspect the bushings to see if they need to be replaced, too.
The hardest part is separating the tubes. If you have an impact wrench, you're good to go. Otherwise, you will have to fashion what amounts to a very long allen wrench. Not sure what size your forks will need, but my wife's 850 required a 19mm. Fortunately, this is very close to 3/4". I used some 1/2" all-thread rod that was 2 feet long and installed 4 nuts, 2 on each end. The nuts use a 3/4" wrench, so it's just right. I left just a bit of the all-thread sticking out to help center the tool in the socket in the bottom of the fork tube. To help you visualize what you are trying to remove, picture the spark plug wrench that is in your bike's stock tool kit. You will be trying to install this tool you are making into the spark plug end of the wrench, but it will be at the bottom of the fork tube. When you get the tool made, clamp your fork tube to prevent rotation, inert an allen wrench into the bolt in the bottom of the fork tube (outside), stick your new tool inside, then use the inner nut to turn it out.
Here are a couple pictures of the tool that I made.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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p_s
What Steve said, but you can also you a spark plug socket. Invert it, connect it to a very long extension & a ratchet. I think it was the socket for 14 mm spark plugs.
Actually I don't remember which spark plug socket I used, but it was different on my '85 GS550ES than on other GSes, but one of the common spark plug sockets did fit.
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Originally posted by p_s View Postbut you can also you a spark plug socket. Invert it, connect it to a very long extension & a ratchet. I think it was the socket for 14 mm spark plugs.
I might have tried it, but I did not have enough extensions to reach all the way down. I think it's cheaper to get the all-thread and four nuts (about $5).
And ... you don't stand the chance of your string of extensions coming apart.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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BassCliff
Hi Mr. gord_s,
This might help too. It's Mr. Matchless' "how to":
Fork Seal Replacement
(by Mr. Matchless)
I try to collect helpful bits on my website. Feel free to stop by and help yourself.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
Good write-up, Matchless.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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I removed my allen bolt with an impact with the spring installed and compressed with the fork cap. Comes right out.
If these are air forks fill them with air untill the seal pops out. (via Saltymonk) Only do this if there is NO WAY you can seperate the fork. I'd advise to seperate so to clean them up and get all the old fork oil and crud out.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Gary Lich
Originally posted by gord_s View PostHi, I'm just changing the seals on an 83 550e, I've got one fork out, do I need to disassemble them to remove the seal or will the old seal pry up and slide up the tube. I've got the snap ring and washer out so the old seal is right there but doesn't want to pry up and out, I'm trying to be gentle to not scratch the tube, though I better stop and find out if I'm just being to nice to it or do I have to split the forks to get it out. Thanks
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gord_s
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82Shafty
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rudy
Originally posted by gord_s View Postthanks for help guys, looks like I'm taking my forks apart.
You won't regret doing it. You'll really be surprised at the tar that comes out. I usually take the whole fork apart, then pry the seal out with my tire spoon. Lots of leverage, and the hooked end fits under the seal lip really well.
I've had it on my buddy's 77 750 where the seals didn't even come out with any amount of levering. Since I was going to polish the fork lowers anyway, I polished around the top where the seal is to heat up the tube. The seals popped out with no trouble at all after that. You could use a heat gun too to get the same effect.
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gord_s
I was having thoughts of defeat today while at work thinking I would just take the forks into the dealer and have them take them apart and install the new seals I just bought from them. I'm just not feeling real confident about it since I've never taken a set apart before, I do want to do this though so I'll decide over the next couple days, I'll update. Thanks.
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lucabond
I drained the fork oil then put 100 lbs of air in the tube and used a hot air gun to heat the seals. They just popped up after awhile. If you are going to do any digging with a screwdriver or a drywall screw do it with the tube full compressed so if you make any nicks they will be at the top of the travel and after you replace the old springs as you should the seals will never make it up that far. Good luck
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