Fork springs and what else?

[GooberPea]

Hi all, it was -23 F here this morning and supposed to be colder tonight. But I like to plan (and budget) ahead so here's my story.

I'd like to replace the front springs this spring. Now that my brakes work well, it's sorta necessary, as I have some major diving.

My quandary is this: Every time I do ANYthing on this bike I run into a few other issues I have to take care of while I'm at it. It always takes time to get parts shipped, during which time I can't ride.

So what is the worst case scenario? What other little "projects" can present themselves in the process of replacing the springs? What other parts will I likely need?

Also, seems to me the rear shocks/springs should be pretty simple and it seems like there isn't too much to go wrong there. Is that actually the case, or am I just being too optimistic? Thanks all,

[Steve]

If you are going to be opening the forks to change the springs, you may as well remove them and take them completely apart and change the seals. Also a good time to inspect the Teflon bushings inside the fork tubes.

You are correct about the rear shocks. Just make sure you have proper bushings in the eyes and snug up the washers on either side of the eyes so the shock still has the ability to pivot ever so slightly as the suspension moves.

.

[marvinsc]

If Your fork seals are questionable at all, go ahead and order them when You do the springs. As a former 850 owner I assure you progressive front fork springs will make a world of difference. You will wish You had done it sooner, I did.

[waterman]

Might want to inspect front brakes, check pads at the minimum. Lube up speedometer drive while apart. Obviously will want to flush and replace fork oil. If really adventerous, tear into steering head bearings. I haven't got to mine yet.

[twr1776]

Steve If you are going to be opening the forks to change the springs, you may as well remove them and take them completely apart and change the seals. Also a good time to inspect the Teflon bushings inside the fork tubes.

I agree with Steve on pulling the forks apart and inspecting them. Basscliffs website has an excellent tutorial by Matchless that will walk you through it. I am doing mine now and I replaced parts 4, 5, 8, 9, 10. I should have also gotten 11 & 12 but will re-use them. My seals are not currently leaking but I am replacing them anyway (27 years old) and using the Pro-Moly seal and wiper kit. Some folks here are not big fans of the Pro-Moly kits but I have had good luck with them. It looks like about 52 + shipping for all the OEM parts and the Progressives are around $80.00. Worth every penny IMHO If you budget allows rear shocks and sticky tires will complete the transformation.

http://www.flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

[doctorgonzo]

Might want to inspect front brakes, check pads at the minimum. Lube up speedometer drive while apart. Obviously will want to flush and replace fork oil. If really adventerous, tear into steering head bearings. I haven't got to mine yet.

Anybody know an aftermarket source for steering stem bearings (hell swingarm too)? I've head ALBALLZ thrown around, but unable to find them. I THINK they still have OEM for my bike. They're getting done for sure. Not doing all this frame welding to firm it up just to have borderline bearings.

[waterman]

Anybody know an aftermarket source for steering stem bearings (hell swingarm too)? I've head ALBALLZ thrown around, but unable to find them. I THINK they still have OEM for my bike. They're getting done for sure. Not doing all this frame welding to firm it up just to have borderline bearings.

I believe they are all balls brand bearings, google that and go. You can also buy OEM stock ($$) and aftermarket replacements, Z1 enterprises has a kit for around $35. You may even check a local bearing establishment and find them there.

As for shaft drive swing arm bearings, it gets a little more difficult. When I went looking for aftermarket, I couldn't find a exact match. The stock 650 swingarm bearings have a plastic outer shield that I have only found on stock bearings for $35 a side. I lubed mine up and said good enough.

[BassCliff]

From the mega-welcome:


All Balls Racing - bearings and seals

http://www.goallballs.com/home.asp

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[bonanzadave]

So what is the worst case scenario? What other little "projects" can present themselves in the process of replacing the springs? What other parts will I likely need?

If you pull the forks off to do the seals that will mean disconnecting the brake line so have some brake fluid handy. My lower damper rod allan bolts were so tight I nearly striped out the heads so I ordered two new bolts with the seals and also the seals for the fork drain screws and of course some fork oil. Lots of rags and some solvent for clean up.

[tkent02]

Put in some cartridge emulators for a really nice ride.

http://www.racetech.com/SubMenu.asp?cMenu=5&c=Yes&cSubMenu=15&showPage=

[Big T]

Put in some cartridge emulators for a really nice ride.

http://www.racetech.com/SubMenu.asp?...u=15&showPage=

Do they come in sizes to fit the fork?

[tkent02]

Do they come in sizes to fit the fork?

Yes, you should have 37mm forks, they have them although their website sucks terribly.
Try to get one for a GS1000 maybe.