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boba
tach
getting my bike started and taking it on its maiden voyage up the hill and around the corner, i noticed my tach didnt work. and when it did it said i was doing 1500 with the motor off and after a little bit it would return to 0, any ideas or know how on if there is something to spray in it to lubricate the insides? the gear and cable work , just the needle isnt wanting to move very freelyTags: None
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LarryA_Texas
Originally posted by boba View Postgetting my bike started and taking it on its maiden voyage up the hill and around the corner, i noticed my tach didnt work. and when it did it said i was doing 1500 with the motor off and after a little bit it would return to 0, any ideas or know how on if there is something to spray in it to lubricate the insides? the gear and cable work , just the needle isnt wanting to move very freely
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You can lube the tach or the speedo, turn it upside down, put a light oil between the outer threaded piece where the cable screws on and the inner part that turns with the inner cable. Drop or two of oil, don't get carried away. Turn the inner part for a while, see if it starts to work better.
They were lubed from the factory, but that was quite a while ago, the grease solidifies, dries out, or congeals, or just turns to ****.
This will also fix a tach or speedo that is squealing at certain speeds.
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Take a flat head screwdriver and pry the glass off. Take your time and to a little at a time. Clean it with brake cleaner with a q-tip and then grease the gears. Don't get brake cleaner on the face plate with the numbers. When reinstalling the glass with a pair of pliers spread the metal base out a bit so it slides back on and use a piece of leather (i used a belt) when clamping the metal back in place to protect the top from tool marks.Last edited by chef1366; 01-17-2009, 04:25 AM.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Read the link below.....removing the back off the tach is linked by BassCliff in the third or fourth post.
Larry D
1980 GS450S
1981 GS450S
2003 Heritage Softtail
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35622
- Torrance, CA
Cutting the gauge apart is a BAD idea. I'd disregard that article entirely.
The easier and less intrusive way to open up a gauge is to bend the lip of the bezel until the entire top can be removed. Flip the gauge face-side-down on a padded workbench and using a flat blade screwdriver, slowly bend the bezel back. Work in steps until the bezel is loose. Takes about 5 minuets. To put the gauge back together, use a drift punch or screwdriver and tap the bezel lip back down.
Photo below shows the lip, and what it will look like after you put it back together.
.
Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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.....disregard the article entirely ?? Really ?? Ouch !!
At least you can see both methods and choose the one that you feel is best.
For my '81 "L" gauges it was easier for me to cut off the back and superglue it back on. The chrome plates on the back hides the repair nicely.Larry D
1980 GS450S
1981 GS450S
2003 Heritage Softtail
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