"Quickening" handling? (GS750T)

[Anonymous]

Ok, so the "new" bike is doing quite well, i've cleaned off all the accessories the previous owner had put on, i've got it starting like a dream, and it's got new fuel lines.

Now it's time to really make it my own :twisted:

I'm looking to make handling quicker, since every time i take my g/f's ZR-550 out for a spin, the GS ends up feeling like a yacht.

i've just changed the bars from the original (high rise, high pullback) to some straighter flatter bars ( i think they resemble those off an E, but i'm not sure)

From there, i'm at a loss of what to do to make it snappier.

Here's what i've found so far in the forums:
- progressive springs front and rear are a good idea (not sure what the $$ and availability is for my bike) would changing just the fronts (which is in my budget) make a big difference?
- A smaller front wheel
- Lowering front and back susppension (how to do this?)

What i haven't found are the pro/cons of these solutions (obviously, progressive == $$)

I'm sure i'm missing a bunch of different options... anything you could sugestion would be great!

The problem is i'm on a bit of a budget right now.

Would changing the fork oil to something a little thicker (like 15w) help? or would it just make the ride harsher?

I'm 225lb, 6'1", and the bike is a (now stock) 82 GS 750 T, oh and i've got spitfires for tires.


Thanks in advance.

[chuckycheese]

WOW!!

At the risk of sounding like an old codger....I think maybe you bought the wrong bike. After all, you wouldn't buy a Honda Accord if you wanted a Corvette.

I love my GS750L and when the rice rockets go blowing by me...I just smile. It's a different sort of ride and not comparable..different strokes for different folks. If I wanted a racer, I'd get rid of this "yacht"!

[SqDancerLynn1]

I would go with the 15 wt fork oil, Maybe drop the forks 5mm in the tripple trees, Add a 1 1/2" spacer to the fork springs to furm them up. Make sure that there is no weight on the front wheel when working on the springs.

[Anonymous]

chucky: The ZR-550 isn't anywhere close to a sport's bike, it was kawi's short lived forray into reviving the "retro/naked" bike concept. It's basically a UJM, but made in the early 90's. (think gpz, but 10 years younger. it's the same engine, mostly the same frame, with new body work) I don't think it's necessarily a bad comparison, but i do realize that the GS is quite a bit heavier and taller.

sqdancer: can i add the spacer on the stock suspension? i thought it was air/oil suspension (i don't have a very good understanding of how it works though) I'm going to look into the 15wt oil for the short term.

Anyone know which progressive springs i'd need in the front?

[chuckycheese]

Thanks

Hey King...Thanks for the clarification. It sounds like you know a LOT about bikes..by the way, I like the term "yacht"....sounds COOL! 8) 8)

[MichaelHoward]

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/appview.asp?AppsNumber=387

try thayKing88mob.
They did not actually list a 750T per say, but here is a link to a 82 750e/l

Hope that works for you.

[SqDancerLynn1]

The spacer is for stock springs. Remove the air cap on the top of the forks. Install a fender washer to fit over the spring and then use 1 1/2' piece pcv pipe A 5/8" coupler or some thing similar, It will take some effort to reinstall the air cap just make sure to get it threaded properly.
It is not necessary to use air in the forks after installing spacers

[Billy Ricks]

The length of the spacer depends more on your weight and what kind of riding you do than anything. What you want to do is take a measurement of how much upper tube is exposed between the lower triple clamp and the top of the lower stanchions. Take this measurement with the fork fully extended and on the centerstand if you have one. Then with the bike on the ground and your weight in the seat take that measurement again. The difference in the two measurements is called sag. For a firm, aggressive ride shoot for 1" of sag. For general, plush riding go for maybe 1 1/2" or a little more. If you use spacers to set up the sag don't use any air in the fork.

As squaredancer already pointed out you can raise the fork tubes up in the triple clamps to where you have the tops of the tubes above the top triple. Go maybe 1/4" at a time to see how it effects the handling. A smaller diameter front wheel will also quicken steering. Lowering the rear will slow it down.

[Anonymous]

Great detail!

The difference in the two measurements is called sag. For a firm, aggressive ride shoot for 1" of sag. For general, plush riding go for maybe 1 1/2" or a little more. If you use spacers to set up the sag don't use any air in the fork.

Does this mean that it would be possible to setup sag using the air component of the fork? e.g. increasing air pressure reduces sag?

This sounds like a project i'll take on AFTER my 4000 Km trip next week

[Billy Ricks]

Yes, if you don't want to go with spacers use the same approach with air. Too much air though is hard on the seals and the condition worsens as the fork compresses.

[Anonymous]

I'm not expert on the subject but I have read a lot about steering geometry. Quickness seems to have more to do with angle of rake than springload. You would have to reduce the angle of the steering head to make any significant gains in quickness in the steering (let me know if I am wrong here) and that is no easy task and not recommended by anyone other than people experienced in frame design. Modern bikes like the Kawasaki Z1000 or Bandits have a much shorter rake and handle much quicker. Not to mention that the modern wheels allow for wider better rubber.

[Billy Ricks]

Michael,
You can do alot to change how a bike steers without changing the rake. Raising tubes in the triples will quicken steering because you are changing trail. Same goes for a smaller diameter front wheel. Suzuki went to 16' wheels in the last generation GS models to quicken steering and reduce gyroscopic effect. A smaller rotating mass will not try to stand the bike up as much as a larger diameter, heavier wheel. You can also change the ride heighth in the rear to effect the way a bike handles. You are correct about preload though, it does nothing to effect how quick a bike changes directions.

[Anonymous]

I ain't too sure Billy but sounds like you nailed that one. I forgot entirely the fact that lengthening the forks or downsizing the tires can play a big part in handling! Who says there isn't good advise here?