Anti Dive Disconnect

[Guest]

I know that this issue was addressed by the group some time ago.

Does anyone have the link?

thanks

[silverhorse47]

Try "search".
S.

[Nessism]

Yes, archive is full of information on this subject…

Bottom line:

- Simplest method is to remove the brake line running to the anti-dive unit and plug the unit to keep dirt out.
- Cleanest method is to remove the entire anti-dive unit and fashion a plate covering the two holes in the fork. If you do this you need to cut a channel in the plate connecting the two holes so oil can pass between them or your fork will react like the anti-dive is activated all the time.

[chef1366]

Posplayr did this mod. Ask him.

[Nessism]

This is what I made...

.

[GQROD]

Nessim how did that plate work out for you? last time i checked your other thread on this was before the site went down again. What measurement for the groove did you settle on ?

[Nessism]

Nessim how did that plate work out for you? last time i checked your other thread on this was before the site went down again. What measurement for the groove did you settle on ?

Forks seems good. Brakes are very firm after disconnecting the anti-dive and suspension compliance seems normal - don't have many miles on the bike yet though.

I made the groove as wide as the holes and about 1/4" deep. Wanted the groove to flow as much fluid as the fork needed so made the groove as deep as I could with a 3/8" piece of aluminum plate.

[Suzuki mad]

So why disconnect the anti dive unit unless the things not working?

Suzuki mad

[Mercaholic]

Disconnect

I was never happy with the feel of the front brake, even after I installed braided lines.

I looked at a bud's older GS750 without anti dive and the brake felt more firm with the original brake lines still in place.

I recall that when the '83 GS1100's were tested, the biggest concern was the sponge feel of the brake lever to the point that the writer's warned not to keep a finger between the lever and bar when managing a panic stop.

[GQROD]

Forks seems good. Brakes are very firm after disconnecting the anti-dive and suspension compliance seems normal - don't have many miles on the bike yet though.

I made the groove as wide as the holes and about 1/4" deep. Wanted the groove to flow as much fluid as the fork needed so made the groove as deep as I could with a 3/8" piece of aluminum plate.

That's great! how did you seal the block of plate? and can you lock up your front brake now? also did you go with progressive springs? i'll have to replace my fork seals and i wanted to do this mod.

[AOD]

You don't need the block-off plate if you find a threaded bolt that fits in where the banjo bolt used to go. I had to use a cut-off wheel to trim the bolt down to where it fully seated in the anti-dive body.

Use the single banjo bolt from the anti-dive body to replace the double banjo bolt on the brake caliper. They're the same size, so it's really really easy.



When asked why should one remove it...it's not needed if you use Progressive fork springs to firm up the front end.

~Adam

[Nessism]

That's great! how did you seal the block of plate? and can you lock up your front brake now? also did you go with progressive springs? i'll have to replace my fork seals and i wanted to do this mod.

Don’t know about locking the front wheel, never tried…nor do I want to. The brake lever is firmer than before, particularly since I built Teflon/stainless brake lines, so I suppose it would be easier to lock than before…if one wanted to.

I didn’t get Progressive springs, cut down the stock springs instead to firm up the ride – cheap mans method to increase the spring rate.

Regarding disabling the anti-dive verses removing it, I opted to remove it to clean up the look of the forks and simplify the fluid path – no more spring loaded blow-off valves. I used a simple gasket to seal the plate – no leaks so far…fingers crossed.

[GQROD]

Don’t know about locking the front wheel, never tried…nor do I want to. The brake lever is firmer than before, particularly since I built Teflon/stainless brake lines, so I suppose it would be easier to lock than before…if one wanted to.

I didn’t get Progressive springs, cut down the stock springs instead to firm up the ride – cheap mans method to increase the spring rate.

Regarding disabling the anti-dive verses removing it, I opted to remove it to clean up the look of the forks and simplify the fluid path – no more spring loaded blow-off valves. I used a simple gasket to seal the plate – no leaks so far…fingers crossed.

Thanks Nessim very helpful to know. One more thing how much did you cut from the original coil springs? i know on cars we usually would cut one coil off to ower the car about an inch to inch and a half. Bike springs i'm lost though!

[Nessism]

Not sure how much but I didn’t cut enough off the first time, might have to go back and cut a little more.

[GQROD]

Pics are really worth a thousand words, thanks. Looks like 2 inches, so i'll try that when the time comes i know i'll have to replace one of the fork tubes it's got a couple of rusty spots.