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    Engine to frame ground wire

    Hi Guys
    My bikes got the negative lead straigt from the battery bolted onto the top of the gearbox, but I can't find another ground wire from the engine to the frame. I'm guessing there has gotta be one, surely they dont rely on the engine mounts making the contact?
    Can anyone tell me where it (ought) to be?

    Thanks
    sigpic
    Current bikes:
    1982 GSX750EZ, 1989 CBR600F
    Previous bikes:
    More BSA Bantams than you can shake a stick at
    Bultaco 350 Trials, BSA C15
    1971 BSA B25SS Gold Star 250, 1969 BSA A65 Lightning
    1976 HONDA CB750 K6

    #2
    Originally posted by Stefnwolf View Post
    Hi Guys
    My bikes got the negative lead straigt from the battery bolted onto the top of the gearbox, but I can't find another ground wire from the engine to the frame. I'm guessing there has gotta be one, surely they dont rely on the engine mounts making the contact?
    Can anyone tell me where it (ought) to be?

    Thanks

    Thats IT. That is all there is.

    Earl
    Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

    I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

    Comment


      #3
      Cooking with electrons

      Hi Mr. Stefnwolf,

      That's the setup on my bike. What's really important is to run a ground wire from your regulator/rectifier (r/r) directly to the negative terminal of your battery. Make sure ALL of your electrical connections and grounds are clean and corrosion-free, from the headlight bucket to the tail light.


      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment


        #4
        Most Jap bikes have the negative terminal going only to the motor. Not a bad idea to get a 2nd lead and run it from your battery to your frame. Older bikes can lose ground to the frame over time - which can lead to hard to find electrical problems.
        My brothers KZ1300 had intermittent starting problems - and after months of cleaning, inspecting and replacing things it ended up being weak grounding...and under 10 Volts at the coils. A 2nd lead to the frame fixed it.

        And like Basscliff said, at least make sure you have your reg/rec connected straight to your battery or you could fry your charging circuit.
        Current:
        Z1300A5 Locomotive (swapped my Intruder for it), GS450 Cafe Project (might never finish it....), XT500 Commuter (I know - it's a Yamaha :eek:)

        Past:
        VL1500 Intruder (swapped for Z1300), ZX9R Streetfighter (lets face it - too fast....), 1984 GSX750EF, 1984 GSX1100EF (AKA GS1150)
        And a bunch of other crap Yamahas....

        Comment


          #5
          i was looking at my '79 r/r and unless the ground is part of the wire bundle coming from the r/r i really don't see a ground coming from it and attaching to the battery box. There is a b/w wire that comes out seperately from the other wire bundle then wraps around the r/r and goes back into the r/r in a different location on the back side of it

          The wire bundle goes down and into the wires to the stator.

          What am i missing here?
          1979 GS850G
          2004 SV650N track bike
          2005 TT-R125 pit bike
          LRRS #246 / Northeast Cycles / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersport

          http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k443/tas850g/

          Comment


            #6
            tas850g There is a b/w wire that comes out seperately from the other wire bundle then wraps around the r/r and goes back into the r/r in a different location on the back side of it
            That is the ground wire for your R/R. The additional wire is usually run from the mounting bolt on the R/R up to the negative terminal of the battery. If you havent done it yet I always drop the R/R, clean the mounting screws, area where the R/R contacts the bottom of the battery box, and use the dielectric grease when re-assembling. You can then run the extra wire up to the negative battery terminal. It is also a good idea to disconnect the negative lead to the frame and clean it up, grease, and re-assemble. On my 81 the negative battery lead looked a little suspect so I replaced it. It was about $ 8 and still available. I am still running the OEM stator and R/R and they are still charging within spec.

            As Cliff said for reliability you must go though the entire harness, all grounds, and headlight bucket. It is a PITA but must be done even before the stator papers to get accurate results on your charging system. While the charging systems on the GS's are not the best out there most of the stator and R/R issues are caused by not cleaning your harness up properly IMHO.
            82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
            81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
            83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
            06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
            AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)

            Comment


              #7
              If just looks like the b/w wire goes back into the r/r but at a different location.

              I'll dismount the r/r and clean up the mounting screws and run the new wire to the negative battery post. I've read alot about doing this but i just haven't done it yet.

              I have gone thru the wiring harness b/c i had a short and found it to be in the fuse box. Fun winter projects.

              Sorry to hijack the thread. Nice tie-in to my question.

              Thanks for the help!
              1979 GS850G
              2004 SV650N track bike
              2005 TT-R125 pit bike
              LRRS #246 / Northeast Cycles / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersport

              http://s327.photobucket.com/albums/k443/tas850g/

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the input guys. Answers my question and more...
                Thought I was almost done with the maintenance (carbs, valves, brakes, exhauste, suspension) but now seems I have a load of electrical stuff to do. Pretty sure the old girl was charging OK anyway, but I guess prevention is better than cure.
                sigpic
                Current bikes:
                1982 GSX750EZ, 1989 CBR600F
                Previous bikes:
                More BSA Bantams than you can shake a stick at
                Bultaco 350 Trials, BSA C15
                1971 BSA B25SS Gold Star 250, 1969 BSA A65 Lightning
                1976 HONDA CB750 K6

                Comment


                  #9
                  If you work on your own car ? Battery and frame/chassi grounds are VERY important too!! Can even cause wheel/differential even transmission bearing failures

                  Comment


                    #10
                    One more question...

                    Is it really a good idea to use dilectric grease on all these misc electrical connections, like bullet connections, battery negative to motor, etc, etc?

                    Does it interfere with conductivity at all?

                    Can anyone answer this with certainty?

                    Thanks.

                    Tomcat

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by tomcat24551 View Post
                      Is it really a good idea to use dilectric grease on all these misc electrical connections, like bullet connections, battery negative to motor, etc, etc?

                      Does it interfere with conductivity at all?

                      Can anyone answer this with certainty?

                      Thanks.

                      Tomcat
                      It does the opposite. It conducts.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment

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