looking for guidance on points

[evenSteven]

greetings,
i'm looking for some info on changing the points on my 79 gs850...i've searched through the site but can't seem to locate the info i'm looking for...anybody point me in the right direction maybe?
thanks,
steve

[Calvin Blackmore]

what do you want to do change to an electronic ignition?
os simply replace defective components with OEM parts?

[Steve]

what do you want to do change to an electronic ignition?
os simply replace defective components with OEM parts?

If I recall correctly, the '79 models had points. From '80 and newer, they had electronic triggers.

If you have the factory manual, look on page 3-9 for a description of the process. If you don't have a factory manual, download one from BassCliff's 'little' website, then look on page 29 of the 454-page document.

If you have a Clymer manual, it's on page 36.

If you have a Haynes manual, there is a procedure to check them on page 12, then more detail on 100 and 101.

.

[evenSteven]

replace original points

what do you want to do change to an electronic ignition?
os simply replace defective components with OEM parts?

greetings calvin,
i'm looking to replace with oem parts...but i've got a newbie mechanic/friend working on it for me...she's got the manual, but she's found the points really finicky for some reason, and i told her i'd check out the forum and see if there was a handy-dandy section that gave tricks and trips on points the same way they do for the stator/regulator/rectifier issues...i'm not actually doing the work myself, just trying to help provide some more resources for mi amigo.
thanks,
steve

[earlfor]

That question has been asked quite a few times. I used to search out my original post/answer, but got tired of redoing the search every time and instead stored my post in my files.

Here is a copy of my answer to the question.

To adjust timing with the bike running, you need a dynamic timing light. to set the static timing (bike is NOT running) all you need is a 12 volt lightbulb and two wires so you can connect it.

Here's the proceedure for timing the 750. The points are located under
the round cover on the right end of the crankcase/crankshaft.

The round 6" plate that both sets of points are mounted on (breaker
plate) is held in place by three screws located at 12, 4 and 8 oclock.
Loosen the 3 screws on the breaker plate. Note that the screw at 12
oclock is in a slot. Rotate the breaker plate until the 12 oclock screw
is centered in the slot. Tighten the three screws.

We will replace the left side set of points first (located at 9 oclock
position) These are the points for cylinders 1 and 4.

Take a 19 mm wrench and rotate crankshaft until points are at widest
gap. Unscrew hold down screw on pointset and remove points. Note the
white wire that goes to the pointset and the placement of the insulator.
The insulator must be correct or the points will be grounded out and
will not work. Put the new points onto the breaker plate, set the gap to
14 thousandths, and lightly tighten the hold down screw. Install white wire.
Rotate crankshaft once again with 19mm wrench until points are at widest
gap. Check that widest gap remains at 14 thousandths. Adjust and
retighten holddown screw if needed.

Rotate crankshaft until rightside points are at widest gap (for
cylinders 2 and 3) Remove old points and install new points and set gap
at 14 thousandths. Note insulators on black wire installation. Rotate
crankshaft with 19 mm wrench again stopping at widest gap. Recheck gap
as you did with the left pointset. Adjust and retighten hold down screw
on points if needed.

THE ABOVE COVERS SETTING THE POINTS GAPS




Next is the timing:

Timing for cylinders 1 and 4 (the left set of points)....................
With 19 mm wrench, rotate crankshaft while looking through the timing
window and align the mark that looks like |F1 with the timing mark on
the engine case.
(the line (|) preceeding F1 is the mark |F1

note: some bikes will have a stationary timing mark on the engine case
and some will have a mark on a stationary timing plate that can be seen
through the timing window)

Connect a continuity lights wire lead/clip to the white wire clip on the
left pointset. Clamp continuity light probe tip to ground on the bike or
battery negative terminal.

Turn ignition switch to on (do not attempt to start bike, just switch
ignition to on)

The continuity light should be on.

Loosen the three screws on the breaker plate located at 12, 4 and 8
oclock. Rotate breaker plate until continuity light just flickers out.
Retighten the 12, 4, and 8 oclock screws on the breaker plate.

Unclip continuity lead from left pointset.



For the Right pointset
Rotate crankshaft with wrench until you see the timing mark F2| become
aligned with the stationary timing mark on the engine case.
Connect continuity light lead to black wire on right pointset.
The ignition should be switched on and the continuity light should be on.

The right pointset is mounted to a breaker half plate.
You will see that you can loosen the mounting screws on this breaker
half plate and this will allow you to move the right pointset. This will
adjust the timing without changing the points gap. When you rotated the
complete breaker plate for the left pointset to get the continuity light
to flicker out, thats what you did. You adjusted the timing on cylinders
1 and 4 without changing the gap on their pointset.
Unfortunately, the whole breaker plate being rotated moves BOTH sets of
points, so that is why you must set the left side first and that is why
the right side is mounted on its own independent half breaker plate.
SOoooooo.... Smile Loosen the breaker half plate on the right side and
rotate as needed to cause the continuity light to just flicker out.
Tighten the half plate back down when satisfied with the adjustment. Smile

Remove continuity light and HOPEFULLY, start bike.


Earl

[gearman]

I seem to have better luck using an ohmmeter instead of a continuity light for static timing. I'd also recommend replacing the condenser(s) and the point cam lube felt (if used) while your at it. Here's a little vid of some points in action:

http://s146.photobucket.com/albums/r247/gearman22/tutorial/?action=view&current=points.flv

[trippivot]

setting points is an art! setting points takes lots of practice.

set the gap first .012~.016 I like .014 (a match book cover thickness is .015)

once you have turned the bike over with a wrench a couple of times to be sure the gap is correct, you are ready to begin the next stage of adjustment.

this timing procedure can be done several ways using different tools.
but I use a test light.
the alligator end connected to the tiny nut on the point spring base.
get it so you can observe the "F" mark and the test light right in the same view spot. you want to turn the engine in the normal direction to get the light to flash exactly at the "F" mark line.

going backwards a half of a turn or more before returning to normal rotating direction to re-check the "F" mark is very important.

it will take time, but after a half dozen times you'll get the hang of it and after a few adjustments you will be able to hear the idle of your bike and know when the previous adjustment is going away. points usually need checked every thousand miles or so. or when you hear little back fires and a rough idle with a small miss in it.