Tank Sealing?

[Phaseman]

I have my 78 GS1000 tank in a body shop getting it's major dent repaired. They had to drill several holes in the tank (top side) to work out the metal. The guy is gonna weld the holes back up before he is done (call me captain obvious). He suggested something that I hadn't thought about.

He's going to call me after the metal work is done so I can take it to a radiator shop before he paints it and have it boiled out. This seems like a great idea to me, and I'm wondering if you guys can think of any reason that I shouldn't? The tank didn't leak before but it looks to me like it may have had some sealant treatment at some time in the past.

Seems like afterwards I can check for leaks and if none it should be pretty darn clean from the boil out. If it does leak I'm thinking that I can do without the 3 step treatment stuff and just go with a coat of Kreme or some like product.

I would welcome any opinions or advice.

[almarconi]

The radiator shop should be able to coat the tank. I think they use something called red kote. Most do not recommend the Kreem product, lots of horror stories with the stuff. The POR-15 or Caswell epoxy have been used with good results.

Red Kote

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html

[spyug]

For extra peace of mind have it done and professionally if you can.

If you do it yourself, the best product IMHO is the Caswell epoxy. Really easy to use and it works with tanks that may not be ultra clean i.e. it likes a bit of rust to bond with.

I've used Kreme and POR-15 and both are ok but require more prep on the tank and you need to follow instructions to the letter. Too fiddly when compared with the Caswell kit. the Caswell kit is also a better deal as it is good for 2 tanks for the same price as one of the other kits.

One less thing you will then need to worry about.

cheers,
spyug.

[tfb]

I've never had a problem with Kreem (done a few tanks with it), but you do need to do the prep. work properly and throughly. It might be that what causes it to fail is ethanol in the fuel (just a rumour I heard).

I have also used an epoxy product called POR-15 with no problems.

[duaneage]

Kreme didn't work for me, I can't recommend it. Once coated with the stuff removing it all to do something else is a real Hillary. I would go with Por-15 for a DIY. If the shop doesn't charge too much let them do it

[Commodus]

I have my 78 GS1000 tank in a body shop getting it's major dent repaired. They had to drill several holes in the tank (top side) to work out the metal. The guy is gonna weld the holes back up before he is done (call me captain obvious). He suggested something that I hadn't thought about.

He's going to call me after the metal work is done so I can take it to a radiator shop before he paints it and have it boiled out. This seems like a great idea to me, and I'm wondering if you guys can think of any reason that I shouldn't? The tank didn't leak before but it looks to me like it may have had some sealant treatment at some time in the past.

Seems like afterwards I can check for leaks and if none it should be pretty darn clean from the boil out. If it does leak I'm thinking that I can do without the 3 step treatment stuff and just go with a coat of Kreme or some like product.

I would welcome any opinions or advice.

I recommend having the rad shop do it. They should be able to find and weld up any big holes before proceeding with the coating and will often give a no-leak warranty. It's good peace of mind, and a lot less hassle.

[tfb]

I recommend having the rad shop do it. They should be able to find and weld up any big holes before proceeding with the coating and will often give a no-leak warranty. It's good peace of mind, and a lot less hassle.

Mate I wish we had radiator services like that here in Oz; haven't found anyone who provides a motorcycle tank sealing service.

[Bud Merrill]

had the rad. shop do my tank last year, <$80, well worth coin considering the mess/grief/and hoping the chem. you may use will stand up to the mix of fuels we use. but there is a price on everything.

[tas850g]

Hey Bud,

Where is that shop?

I'm in the process of doing mine or trying to anyways. Got the tank real clean with Milkstone remover then had to take off before i could allow it to dry properly and came home 3-4hrs later to find a flash rusted tank. I'll soak MSR again and seal with Caswell epoxy. I've read it's is to use and works well.

[Nessism]

I cleaned two different tanks with failed sealing jobs inside and can say that it's a lot of work to get the crud out and prepare the metal for sealing a second time. It took multiple applications of the strongest paint stripper I could find, followed by shaking the crap out of the tank with pea gravel inside before all the old sealer was removed. I eventually managed to get the tank clean but very few shops could afford to take the time and effort to assure the tank is properly clean. Most shops will drop the tank into some boiling solution and pull it out after cooking for an hour or two. Not sure that's going to be good enough though. I suggest you have a good talk to the radiator shop guys and ask to see the tank after cleaning, and before sealing. You can look inside though the various openings and verify all the old coating is removed before allowing them to go to the sealing step. They won't like it but too bad, it's your tank. Make sure the job is done right.

Good luck, hope it turns out well.

[Phaseman]

tas850g - Hey Bud, Where is that shop?

Not sure yet. The guy at the body shop said he would recommend a place to me when he gets the metal all banged out and the dent pulling holes all welded up. He's supposed to have it ready for cleaning tomorrow. I dropped in on him saturday and it looked like he was taking great care.

This is the dent he's fixing for me. Several shops wouldn't touch it.

[chef1366]

Did a tree fall on it?

[Phaseman]

No trees...

Naw, the guy I bought it from had it parked in a carport and a couple of winters ago his wife went to warm up her car by reaching through the window. It was in gear and lurched, barely tapping the bike but it tipped over into a 4x4 post, or so the story goes.

[alke46]

Kreme didn't work for me, I can't recommend it. Once coated with the stuff removing it all to do something else is a real Hillary. I would go with Por-15 for a DIY. If the shop doesn't charge too much let them do it

I just visited my local radiator shop and was quoted $125 for boiling out the tank followed by baking the tank to basically turn the previous lining into ash so it can be removed and then re-boiling the tank again before applying some sort of liner that is used in commercial aircraft application.
What is the opinion of the forum on this procedure? Of course the tqnk will then need to be painted. Thanks guys. Also, sorry for the thread hijacking.

[Florida Guy]

I just visited my local radiator shop and was quoted $125 for boiling out the tank followed by baking the tank to basically turn the previous lining into ash so it can be removed and then re-boiling the tank again before applying some sort of liner that is used in commercial aircraft application.
What is the opinion of the forum on this procedure? Of course the tqnk will then need to be painted. Thanks guys. Also, sorry for the thread hijacking.

That sounds like a very fair price to me.
You could not do that yourself, and would be some mess even if you could.