Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Im really tired of riding a semi working, poorly tuned bike, so...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Im really tired of riding a semi working, poorly tuned bike, so...

    IM FIXING EVERYTHING! lol no seriously. i have everything off and am not putting it back together until it leaks not a drop of oil, the blinkers work correctly, and it idles consistently.

    a little background - my bike is an 82 GS1100GL. But the pipes on it are longer than the shorty megaphones, i was told they were probably from an E or G model. I have an UNI foam air filter. I have sealed the airbox and have good intake manifolds and rings. I replaced the petcock, but before I did that fuel was always leaking into the crankcase but i changed the oil and fixed the leak before any damage could be done. This told me the needle valve and seat need replacing.

    first off, carbs. the main Jet is a 115. I assume it should be bumped up at least one size to balance the effects of the Uni filter correct? also how would the non L model pipes effect jetting? Where could I get jets, and also needle valve and valve seats? what else would i need to get this bigger running smoothly? im going to get an oring kit from mr. barr as soon as i post this.

    #2
    I ran a Uni filter in my airbox and it did not warrant a rejet.
    I don't know if the baffles are the same on the different pipes. Does it have a crossover?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      The stock filter is also oiled foam. You don't need to rejet with the Uni, and 115 is the proper main jet size.
      1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
      2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
      2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
      Eat more venison.

      Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

      Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

      SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

      Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
        I ran a Uni filter in my airbox and it did not warrant a rejet.
        I don't know if the baffles are the same on the different pipes. Does it have a crossover?

        No rejet... YES! yes it has a crossover. the 2 and 3 pipes crossover in front of the oil filter.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by lordcannon88 View Post
          ...the 2 and 3 pipes crossover in front of the oil filter.
          Interesting.

          All the crossovers I have seen were behind the filter, but in front of the drain.

          .
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
          Family Portrait
          Siblings and Spouses
          Mom's first ride
          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

          Comment


            #6
            Are the carbs spotless with a good soak and float height's correct, air screws set roughly 2+ turns out from lightly seated, and a solid bench sync in place? Battery fully charged and charging system healthy and working corrrectly? All need to be done in order to get it to run right.

            Comment


              #7
              ok lets just break it down so it does not get overwhelming.
              tuning is:
              1. fuel
              2. spark
              3. compression

              ok getting the carbs right is MAJOR that is why it takes 1-or 2 times over and over and over. but after they are correctly sealing and running--it is cake for the rest of the bike systems (keep notes of what you do how it worked)

              oil sealing is straight forward -- remove - clean - reseal --

              wiring should come last unless it is a ignition,running,starting issue. charging is easy to ignore 'til last using a test battery.turn signals have a lot of wires but stick with it there are less than 300 wires there total.mark them and you'll see less than 20 are turn signal related.

              good luck and keep the faith.
              SUZUKI , There is no substitute

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Dave8338 View Post
                Are the carbs spotless with a good soak and float height's correct, air screws set roughly 2+ turns out from lightly seated, and a solid bench sync in place? Battery fully charged and charging system healthy and working corrrectly? All need to be done in order to get it to run right.
                well the charging system is good. the bike ran but it was obviously just not tuned. i am a perfectionist so this is unacceptable. ive heard something somewhere about the middle cylinders needing to be a bit richer than the outer ones do to more heat?

                the PO of my bike replaced most turn signals with leds and added vetter bags and a trunk and fairing, so the - what i believe to be stock - turn signal relay has issues with all this. anyone had any good luck with any brand of load balancers for the signals? do they make adjustable ones? when summer hits i will probably take the fairing off and put a random headlight bucket and signals on it. and probably as well take the trunk off which would remove 2 signals from the mix.

                I can tell the shift gasket leaks, but it looks like theres another one somewhere above it slightly in the area of the bottom of the shaft boot. it is not gear oil though. what is involved with shift shaft gasket replacement?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by lordcannon88 View Post
                  anyone had any good luck with any brand of load balancers for the signals? do they make adjustable ones?
                  I experimented with LED brake light and indicators. Ordered them along with a new solid state relay from here: http://www.customdynamics.com/trick_flasher.htm

                  I just had to squeeze on some connectors and it fit right in where I pulled the old relay out, if I regret it will take 30 seconds to swap back. After testing I found the brake light much brighter but that the LEDs were less bright through my colored glass so I went back to incandescents. But I kept the relay as the old one made a weird "whirrr-click" before beginning to flash, and I'm a fan of sealed solid state stuff. The new relay is a bit faster than stock but you can also buy an adjustable rate relay from them.

                  I think the price has increased since I bought them in July, but I think it's a better idea than a load balancer.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I can't remember who made it but there was an aftermarket company that made a 4 into 2 that paired 1 with 4 and 2 with 3 (pairing the 180 deg firing cylinders). when you say the 2 and 3 cross infront of the oil filter is there a cross over tube that bridges 2 and 3 or do the tubes actually cross one another?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by 76FJ55 View Post
                      I can't remember who made it but there was an aftermarket company that made a 4 into 2 that paired 1 with 4 and 2 with 3 (pairing the 180 deg firing cylinders). when you say the 2 and 3 cross infront of the oil filter is there a cross over tube that bridges 2 and 3 or do the tubes actually cross one another?
                      the 2 and 3 cylinders have a 1" or so crossover tube connecting them. the mufflers say suzuki on them so there obviously stock off of something.

                      ill post pictures tonite.

                      thanks for the info on the flashers ola. ill add it to my to buy list. lol

                      Comment


                        #12
                        OK now for the second round of questions. I took the exhaust off to gain better access to the underside and I cleaned everything off and the only thing leaking is the shift shaft seal. It could be worse. I think Ive got a handle on changing that, but when I took off the exhaust it was very loosly put together. It seemes to be missing gaskets in some places. What kind of gaskets are there between the headers and the cyl head?

                        Also, my carbs were overflowing but I got a new petcock. But that leads to my next question: How can I tell if my intake needle valve and seat are too worn? Im rebuilding the carbs but im not sure whether to assume it was just the rings or buy all new needles and seats. I have also seen mentioned at some point a way to get the needle to seal again? I think it involved valve lapping compound, whatever that is. I'm still new at this! lol

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by lordcannon88 View Post
                          OK now for the second round of questions. I took the exhaust off to gain better access to the underside and I cleaned everything off and the only thing leaking is the shift shaft seal. It could be worse. I think Ive got a handle on changing that, but when I took off the exhaust it was very loosly put together. It seemes to be missing gaskets in some places. What kind of gaskets are there between the headers and the cyl head?

                          Also, my carbs were overflowing but I got a new petcock. But that leads to my next question: How can I tell if my intake needle valve and seat are too worn? Im rebuilding the carbs but im not sure whether to assume it was just the rings or buy all new needles and seats. I have also seen mentioned at some point a way to get the needle to seal again? I think it involved valve lapping compound, whatever that is. I'm still new at this! lol
                          Here's a recent thread about exhaust gaskets. Easy to find on ebay or your local dealership at about $2.00 apiece.

                          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=136818

                          It's best to completely rebuild the carbs with new orings throughout, as you're doing. You can get new needle valves, but it's more than likely the rubber o-rings for the needle valve seat. If the needle valves are still nice and "springy" when you get them out, I wouldn't worry about it.
                          Larry D
                          1980 GS450S
                          1981 GS450S
                          2003 Heritage Softtail

                          Comment


                            #14
                            well the needle valve is def. springy so hopefully its just the oring. On the carb rebuild pdf it mentions using some sort of lube on the new orings. what kind of lube exactly does everyone use? I would hate to use the wrong one and have it eat my new rings.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X