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Broken upper end stud

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    Broken upper end stud

    Okay... so...
    I was here:
    [IMG]http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g40/uudfourty/Random****044.jpg[/IMG]



    Two torque wrench turns later, I was here:
    [IMG]http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g40/uudfourty/Random****045.jpg[/IMG]




    [IMG]http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g40/uudfourty/Random****046.jpg[/IMG]

    For clarification... what is the torque spec for these studs... I had a calibrated wrench running off of a Clymer manual, but shiznit happens, and suds break. Anyone have a number which has worked well for them?

    In the meantime, I'm going to search the threads for another 10 mins or so, then go back and light up the propane torch.

    Just type *** if it's drill and tap time. I can't bear to read the words.

    #2
    okay... my "random sh!t" folder won't work... hang on...

    Comment


      #3
      okay...

      was here:



      Then this happened:








      dammit, Janet....

      There is not yet a word in the English language which can properly describe how incredibly ****ed off I am right now, by the way.
      I submit: AAFARGLEN!--- the level of anger which is experienced after taking a day off work to do an upper-end rebuild which, of course, ends in an broken stud.
      Last edited by Guest; 02-05-2009, 05:50 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Oh you need to be careful with this one. The problem with heating the area is the aluminum is going to conduct a lot away from the area. A question would be are they pressed in or threaded?

        I would weld a bolt to it and try to turn it out rather than grab that skinny metal end with vise grips. you could slip a nut over the end, weld it to the stud and give it a few turns.
        1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
        1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

        Comment


          #5
          Threaded, me hopes, but doesn't know.

          If I had a welder, that'd be rad.

          If I had a welder, I'd weld it in the mornin...

          As it stands, the nearest free-to-use welder is 7 miles away. And I have no trailer on the 94 Buick Century.

          Comment


            #6
            How about brazing? you can do that with a map gas torch.,

            I sold an engine to a GSRer that had teh same thing happen to his rebuilt engine. he damaged the cases trying to drill out the stud and ruined the half. I would try and weld or braze a nut onto it. Take a few minutes and walk away from it.

            At least you have 1.5 inches sticking out and it is not flush.
            1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
            1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

            Comment


              #7
              I would guess some PO has overtightened these studs, perhaps several times.
              I would replace them all if it were me.

              Welding on a nut seems a good idea.

              The red cylinders look nice too.
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

              Comment


                #8
                I'll do some looking to verify that it isn't pressed into the half.

                Brazing is... ugh... unfortunately looking like the best option.

                Why doesn't this ever happen on the outside studs?

                I'm sure it does, just not to me.

                I don't have any MAPP gas, but I'm sure I can come across some.

                Comment


                  #9
                  It's not pressed in, they are threaded. Heat the area up, and get the biggest vise grips you can on it, and it will come. You just be torquing it in the 28-30 foot pound range. Good luck

                  Comment


                    #10
                    It also looks like there is alot of blow-by on number 3, did you re-ring it while it was apart?? Looks like you also are replacing the camchain, seeing it has been broken, be sure to rivet that link in good shape!!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Oops, I guess thats a piece of rope holding the camchain, carry on.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The stud is screwed in, i'd consider welding as a last resort due to the chance of getting splatter into the crankcases, & because heating the stud to that degree will weaken it

                        As a first option i would remove anything that could be damaged & heat the crankcase as low down as possible while trying to avoid heating the stud too much then apply constant even pressure to the stud to unscrew it as the cases cool

                        If you try this option do NOT snatch at the stud or it is liable to break off flush with the crankcase & if the stud moves then stops do NOT force it just re heat the cases & start the process again

                        If you do manage to break off the stud, which is a distinct possibility drilling it out at home accurately is virtually impossible so take it to a good engineer to either drill or spark erode out (cheaper than new cases & a rebuild)

                        hope it helps
                        tone

                        Comment


                          #13
                          A little heat & a stud remover ! Definately NOT pressed it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I agree completely with TONE. When I rebuilt the bottom end (the bike's not mine) I had the cases apart and heated the upper case from inside and out and put a lot of pressure on it and in the end gave up. It felt to me like they were going to break. I could not get any of them to budge. It is a real ordeal trying to get them out. So be careful and as TONE said better to take it to a machinist if your attempts don't work.

                            Hopefully you will get it out, but I doubt it. Keep us updated with your progress. It will be interesting to see what happens.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Get a stud remover, and it will be out in no time.

                              Comment

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