Broken upper end stud

[bwringer]

They are threaded studs, and held in with some very stout thread lock compound. It seems to me to be stronger than Loctite blue, but not quite the invulnerability of Loctite red.

Heat will soften the thread lock goop and ease this project considerably. I also recommend a stud remover.

Install a new stud with blue Loctite and ride happy...

[bwringer]

Hey, your #2 piston is named "Art"!

[chef1366]

Apply the heat to the end of the stud only and try to keep away from the block as much as possible. I bet you get it out! Remove the cam chain tensioner next to the stud so you can get a good vice grip on that baby.

[uudfourty]

The red cylinders look nice too.

Thanks.
Did it all by my onesies.
I'm going to do a write-up in Appearance Mods when shes done.
I've got a friend who's itching to do some airbrush work on a motorcycle tank.

Good luck

Thanks.

It also looks like there is alot of blow-by on number 3, did you re-ring it while it was apart??

No, but since I'm going to have to place another order for a stud and a base gasket, I might as well.
Come ooooonnn income tax return.

Hey, your #2 piston is named "Art"!

#4 is Simon.
#3 is Creative Differences.

Okay. Thanks guys.
Will get a stud remover and give it a shot. Hopefully I'll have a positive update over the weekend.

[mike-s]

As one stud has broken, due to the unknown treatment of the others i would seriously encourage you to buy a new set of studs for the whole damned lot. A stud remover is a good idea, and you would have better justification for one than i would (8 studs for me vs 16 for you).

I had one stud break on me, but fortunately right near the top thread, so i had plenty of meat to grip onto. FIRST i would give it a little bit of a hit with a rubber mallet to help break any bonds (corrosion and/or loctite) and then instead of heat i would look into getting a loctite product called "freeze and release" and spray it directly onto the base of the thread of the stud. It has a penetrating oil in there and it is very effective in cooling the local area and making the stud contract slightly and i am quite certain was a massive help in allowing me to remove the stud. After this, then use the stud remover to get rid of the broken stud, im sure you'll find it works quite well.

Regarding the difficulty in removing the studs, your forgetting that its not just loctite causing it to be hard to remove, as the studs are already machined to be a very tight fit in the body of the crankcase (it was a real pita just to put the new ones in) and the studs also stretch during use (when i replaced my studs they were ALL 4-5mm longer than the new studs replacing them) and the studs threaded section would have stretched as far as the threading would have permitted them to, thusly making it a right bear to get out.

[wst33]

I have not read all the post. If you have not fixed the problem, try this. Heat the stud and melt candle wax on the stud, it should follow the heat to the threads, and after cooling the stud should come loose.