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    More about tire pressure.

    I recently got Reg. Pridmore's book and I've been generally impressed with the content. Unlike some of the other experts he does have some differing ideas about some of the standard concepts and procedures, however.

    One thing that I read but don't understand, as he doesn't explain his reasoning, is tire pressure. He states that while most tire manufacturers advocate pressures of around 40 psi, he suggests 32 psi (front & back) should be the correct setting for street tires. With two up or with heavier bikes he says back tires should be boosted by 2 psi or so. He doesn't differentialte between radials or bias plys.

    I found this confusing and I wonder what the advantage is. Wouldn't the tire sidewalls get more "flexi" and wouldn't this result in premature wear or even tire failure in extreme useage?

    Would anyone have any knowledge to share on this subject. Anyone taken Mr. P.'s CLASS courses?

    Thoughts folks?

    Cheers all,
    Spyug.

    #2
    You should be running higher pressures on modern tyres. The tyres of our bike's era were designed to run around 32 psi. Pressures around that figure were recommended by the bike manufacterers.
    However, IMO you need to set your pressures using your bikes suspension set up and your personal riding styles as guidelines.
    I run Sport Demons and found 34-35 psi front and 38-40psi rear to suit me best. Because of the progresssive spings, increased preload and 15 grade oil, any pressures over 34 psi up front cause the front wheel to sart to loose adhesion during tighter, more undulating turns. The rear wheel is more stable at higher pressures, so isn't so sensitive to changes in psi.
    The higher the pressure, the greater the side wall stability. It is a great advantage when running higher pressures, to be using a stickey conpound.
    Just my 2 cents worth.
    :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

    GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
    GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
    GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
    GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

    http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
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      #3
      Yep, you have to look at things in context. When he was suggesting 32 psi, what was the maximum rating on the tire? Many (most?) manufacturers were selling comfort about as much as performance, so they suggested the softest pressures that would safely carry the intended load. If the maximum suggested pressure on the sidwall was 32 psi, then you run at 32 or less, depending on the load and speed. If another tire says it can carry the same weight, but requires 40 psi to do so, then that's what you run in it.

      A general guideline I have always followed is the 10% rule. Measure and record your cold tire pressures. Go for a ride. Make it a spirited ride of at least 50 miles to ensure that the tires are properly warmed up. Measure and record your warm pressures. You are looking for a 10% increase in pressure. If it was less than 10%, your cold pressure was too high. If it was more than 10%, your cold pressure was too low. If you frequently ride two-up, you will need higher pressure, especially in the rear tire. Yes, you need to check the pressure rise again. Darn, another excuse for a ride.

      Oh, if you change tires to another brand or model with different weight/pressure ratings, you get to do this all over again.

      .
      sigpic
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      Comment


        #4
        I'm with the 49ER.Bridgestone Spitfire's at 34 psi front and 38 psi rear and getting a grippy 15,000 km rear and ++km front.Cheers,Simon.
        http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...esMapSimon.jpg

        '79 GS1000S my daily ride in Aus

        '82 (x2) GS650ET in the shed

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Steve View Post
          A general guideline I have always followed is the 10% rule. Measure and record your cold tire pressures. Go for a ride. Make it a spirited ride of at least 50 miles to ensure that the tires are properly warmed up. Measure and record your warm pressures. You are looking for a 10% increase in pressure. If it was less than 10%, your cold pressure was too high. If it was more than 10%, your cold pressure was too low. If you frequently ride two-up, you will need higher pressure, especially in the rear tire. Yes, you need to check the pressure rise again. Darn, another excuse for a ride.
          .
          Excellent advice! This is the way we always checked for proper tire temperature/pressure back in my sport riding days and track days. We didn't have low cost pyrometers then. I haven't heard this method mentioned for quite some and thought that most folks either forgot about or just didn't know. If the tire is heating up too much you'll be over the 10% and likewise if the tire is not getting hot enough for the rubber to work properly, especially on soft compound tires, you'll be under the 10%. For general street riding you could however use as low as about 8% but softer tires don't seem to work great until they get nice and hot.
          '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
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            #6
            I run 40psi in the rear and 35 in the front. Bike is stable and I get more miles from the tires.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              Great Tip

              Hey Bill why didnt U tell me that before. U know I run 20 psi all around

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Steve View Post
                Yep, you have to look at things in context. When he was suggesting 32 psi, what was the maximum rating on the tire? Many (most?) manufacturers were selling comfort about as much as performance, so they suggested the softest pressures that would safely carry the intended load. If the maximum suggested pressure on the sidwall was 32 psi, then you run at 32 or less, depending on the load and speed. If another tire says it can carry the same weight, but requires 40 psi to do so, then that's what you run in it.

                A general guideline I have always followed is the 10% rule. Measure and record your cold tire pressures. Go for a ride. Make it a spirited ride of at least 50 miles to ensure that the tires are properly warmed up. Measure and record your warm pressures. You are looking for a 10% increase in pressure. If it was less than 10%, your cold pressure was too high. If it was more than 10%, your cold pressure was too low. If you frequently ride two-up, you will need higher pressure, especially in the rear tire. Yes, you need to check the pressure rise again. Darn, another excuse for a ride.

                Oh, if you change tires to another brand or model with different weight/pressure ratings, you get to do this all over again.

                .
                Ditto on this advice. The maximum pressure stamped on the tires is for the maximum load rating. The amount of weight you carry and riding style makes the correct pressure different for everyone.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I did four track days back in 2000-2001 on my Kat. Reg Pridmore's Class schools came up to Pacific Raceways formerly SIR (Seattle International Raceway)for a 2 day course.

                  When it came to tire pressures on the track with morning temps in the upper 40's to low 50's, he suggested 30-30 psi. I put in 125 laps of the 2.25 mile course over 2 days.

                  I had a 591 bias up front and a radial MEZ2 out back before they discontinued it.

                  I still mix with a Harley 591 up front and a Dunlop 205 radial out back. 31psi front and 31-32 out back. I get about 10 months out the tires and ride year round.
                  GS\'s since 1982: 55OMZ, 550ES, 750ET, (2) 1100ET\'s, 1100S, 1150ES. Current ride is an 83 Katana. Wifes bike is an 84 GS 1150ES

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                    #10
                    I ride with 28 - 36 in the 1000's but I'm not very heavy.. (165lb) Seems to be working ok so far. I haven't really tried any other pressures to compare. I'm running Avon RR

                    Dan
                    1980 GS1000G - Sold
                    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by posplayr View Post
                      Hey Bill why didnt U tell me that before. U know I run 20 psi all around
                      I thought it was 10psi.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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