engine ground vs. other ground spots...

[supergrafx]

I've been going through my entire electrical system cutting off oxidized connections and soldering and or crimping new ones. Last thing I needed to do was clip off the battery negative ground attached to the engine case, and noticed it was difficult to get to with the stock airbox on a 77 gs550. I tried to take the box off, actually got the filter box (not the airbox off), but it seems I'll have to take the carbs off to get the remainder of the airbox off. Don't really want to do that... My impact driver does not have enough clearance to get to the engine ground screw. So, was wondering if I could use a different location to ground the battery? I know there is a ground for one of the components (I think the solenoid starter) attached above the airbox to a metal plate linking the airbox to the frame of the bike and was wondering if I could use that. The negative ground for the battery is as everyone knows is a thick guage unlike the solenoid (I'm guessing 18 guage wire). Any harm in connecting both to this spot instead of the engine case? I'm sorry if this is a stupid question since common sense makes me think a ground is a ground and anything touching clean metal should work. Just hoping that is the case.

[knotzilla]

For a complete circuit the starter is grounded to the engine, therefore the negative of the battery must be connected to the engine, Ted

[supergrafx]

Nice. Thanks for replying Ted. I guess off with the carbs then. Your gs850 is very nice (just saw the big pic in your profile). I'm even more jealous of your Norton which I didn't see but could only imagine in my dreams. Thanks again.

~Gabe

[Suzuki_Don]

To back Ted up (who does have a beautiful bike) the battery negative must be connected to the motor and the frame at some point. There are a number of ways to do this. The other thing is that you do not have to mount the earth strap to the existing point on the motor. If there is somewhere else that is more convenient then use that. Cylinder head bolt, rocker cover bolt, starter motor mounting bolt, etc.

If you do remove the phillips head screw then replace it with a hex head bolt or allen bolt so that next time removal will be much less of a pain.

[salty_monk]

If you can get a good set of mole grips onto it (or file/grind with dremel some flats on it) you could get it out that way & then replace with a Hex or Allen...

[nisom512]

I've been going through my entire electrical system cutting off oxidized connections and soldering and or crimping new ones. Last thing I needed to do was clip off the battery negative ground attached to the engine case, and noticed it was difficult to get to with the stock airbox on a 77 gs550. I tried to take the box off, actually got the filter box (not the airbox off), but it seems I'll have to take the carbs off to get the remainder of the airbox off. Don't really want to do that... My impact driver does not have enough clearance to get to the engine ground screw. So, was wondering if I could use a different location to ground the battery? I know there is a ground for one of the components (I think the solenoid starter) attached above the airbox to a metal plate linking the airbox to the frame of the bike and was wondering if I could use that. The negative ground for the battery is as everyone knows is a thick guage unlike the solenoid (I'm guessing 18 guage wire). Any harm in connecting both to this spot instead of the engine case? I'm sorry if this is a stupid question since common sense makes me think a ground is a ground and anything touching clean metal should work. Just hoping that is the case.

I would guess that the wire is going to be an 8 gauge the smaller the number the larger the wire(i know it's weird) you need to just find a bolt that is on part of the engine that is not aluminum(this is a bad conductor) and I hear taking the carbs off a VM is even easier than my CV and my CV are not hard at all to take off on my 550. why you could have taken them off in the time you spent typing this long thing up. plus you took the air filter box out so that ill give you another inch or so for the air box. good luck

[supergrafx]

To back Ted up (who does have a beautiful bike) the battery negative must be connected to the motor and the frame at some point. There are a number of ways to do this. The other thing is that you do not have to mount the earth strap to the existing point on the motor. If there is somewhere else that is more convenient then use that. Cylinder head bolt, rocker cover bolt, starter motor mounting bolt, etc.

If you do remove the phillips head screw then replace it with a hex head bolt or allen bolt so that next time removal will be much less of a pain.

If you can get a good set of mole grips onto it (or file/grind with dremel some flats on it) you could get it out that way & then replace with a Hex or Allen...

I did replace all the philips screws on the engine covers and cylinder head cover with hex bolts from burks already. Don, are the cylinder head bolts the bolts for the cylinder head cover or any around the cylinder's outer casing not including the cover? Also the starter motor mounting bolt, that the one bolt that keeps the starter cover closed? That seems pretty close to where the battery negative is already which would be cool. And Salty Monk, thank you as well, I have a dremel but will look up what mole grips are. Always interested in new tools.

[supergrafx]

I would guess that the wire is going to be an 8 gauge the smaller the number the larger the wire(i know it's weird) you need to just find a bolt that is on part of the engine that is not aluminum(this is a bad conductor) and I hear taking the carbs off a VM is even easier than my CV and my CV are not hard at all to take off on my 550. why you could have taken them off in the time you spent typing this long thing up. plus you took the air filter box out so that ill give you another inch or so for the air box. good luck

I should take them off, it's time to man up and do it!

[Steve]

If you can get a good set of mole grips onto it ...

And Salty Monk, thank you as well, I have a dremel but will look up what mole grips are. Always interested in new tools.

Relax, you might already have some.

"Mole grips" is merely the Brit term for Vise Grips.

.

[salty_monk]

Thanks for the translation, I'm usually the one providing those

Kroil is a really good penetrating spray that's helped me get some stuff out. I wound out a stuck valve cover bolt that had about 1/8" of shaft showing & no head very easily with a set of grips after soaking it in that for a week.

Dan

[duaneage]

I might make a pilgrimage down to The DC area to visit a mutual friend we have near bethesda, we should get together and have a look at your 550, especially since our friend owned it before

[Suzuki_Don]

I did replace all the philips screws on the engine covers and cylinder head cover with hex bolts from burks already. Don, are the cylinder head bolts the bolts for the cylinder head cover or any around the cylinder's outer casing not including the cover? Also the starter motor mounting bolt, that the one bolt that keeps the starter cover closed? That seems pretty close to where the battery negative is already which would be cool. And Salty Monk, thank you as well, I have a dremel but will look up what mole grips are. Always interested in new tools.

Yes the mounting bolt for the starter motor cover would be fine. Forget the cylinder head bolts, that's a last resort. Don't know why I put that in there.

[supergrafx]

I might make a pilgrimage down to The DC area to visit a mutual friend we have near bethesda, we should get together and have a look at your 550, especially since our friend owned it before

I look very forward to that Duane! Let me know asap when your coming and I will make order on the refreshments!