Any Suzook mechanics out there have advice?
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Master-Linked Cam Chain
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Master-Linked Cam Chain
Has anyone heard of using a cam chain with a master link to replace a broken cam chain? My '85 GS700ES had the cam chain break. I've heard about using a replacement cam chain with a master link so you don't have to tear the engine down completely to facilitate repairs.
Any Suzook mechanics out there have advice?Mad Doctor
'78 GS550E - Need O-Rings for carbs
'85 GS700ES - In Process of Rebuild
'99 GSF1200S - Running --YEAH!!Tags: None
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makenzie71
Front the street going side I've never seen a masterlink fail...but I carry a spare anyway. I'd be leery of putting a masterlink where access is so prohibited...
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BassCliff
Hi Mr. maddoctor,
You could rivet a link but it takes a special tool. Z1 should have what you need.
Thank you for your induglence,
BassCliff
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Commodus
Yeah, it's one of those things...I mean it probably won't fail, and I've never seen one fail, but it's just such bad news if it does that I would never risk one.
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Don-lo
If the chain broke while the motor was running, then you bent valves. If the chain wadded up around the crankshaft, then you may have more damage. You need to check that out, a used motor may be cheaper. Actually, some of the guys from Australia use the linked chains and swear by them (they put on lots of miles). I would use one if I was sure it was high quality.
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there is absolutely no harm whatsoever in using a master link camchain. as long as it is reasonable quality and fitted correctly then the chances of failure are almost non existant. a master link with a spring clip is just as strong as a rivet link.
i have used these links many times and fitted them to other bikes and have never seen or heard of one failing1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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Originally posted by rapidray View PostYes, & Lucas Electrics are the best ever made! There is a REASON all the factories use ONLY continuous chains! Guess what that is?!!! Ray.Last edited by Agemax; 02-25-2009, 02:20 PM.1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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knotzilla
It might come down to economics. I would think it's cheaper for the manufacturers to use an endless chain due to the fact the cost of a master link and the added cost of connecting a chain with a master link on the assembly line. I used a masterlink on my old Yamaha xs750 camchain and had no problem and if I had to replace my camchain on my 850 I would use a masterlink too, Ted
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Originally posted by BassCliff View PostHi Mr. maddoctor,
You could rivet a link but it takes a special tool. Z1 should have what you need. BassCliff
1) Grind down one cam chain pin flush to the link plate from the new chain with your dremel tool. Support the cam chain link plates so they cannot bend as you drift out the cam chain pin. Do not discard the link pin.
2) Measure the rockwell hardness (Rc) of the pin, this is critical. I measured mine in a mechanical lab. Have your machinist fabricate another pin from better than or equal to stock, OD to (.0001) and same polished surface finish. The pin length also needs to accomodate for the peening process.
3) I removed both cams and then cut the old cam chain with a dremel cutting wheel. Attached one end of the new cam chain to the old cam chain with safety wire. Turned the crank over till I had both ends of the new chain in hand. Secured the cam chain and then stuffed the cam chain tunnel and everything else with shop rags to avoid Murphy's law.
4) Inserted the new fabricated cam chain pin through both links. Ensure the cam chain links on either side of the pin are moving freely. Recruit a friend for the peening process which of course is another critical step. One person holds a piece of bar stock against the unmolested cam chain pin while the other person on the other side peens the link with their favorite super hard drift. Don't mushroom the cam chain pin by impacting straight on, rather peen the pin at a offset angle like the cam chain manufacturer does. That means you can probably only strike it on either side along a straight line.
5) Check the installed link for freedom of movement. Button it up.Steve
1979 GS1000E (45 Yrs), 1981 GPz550 (11 Yrs)
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In my view a quality endless chain has got to be better as there should be no potential weak links (though I contradict myself in the last sentence of this post ) That's what I've always used as a replacement - generally splitting a motor isn't a killer job. Having said that I've had a few bikes with a spring clip link and never bothered to replace them and they've been fine.
However, if I was putting in a chain that needed joining I'd prefer a spring clip over a rivet. The springs's job is only to keep the side plate in place and therefor shouldn't have any side forces on it. As long as the clip hasn't been boogered by bending when putting on / taking off it should be fine. It's also good practice to renew the clip whenever it's been removed.
If you go down the rivet route there are more chances for getting things wrong. Note the effort srsupertrap went to in order to reduce the risk of failure. Heck, I wouldn't know who to get to measure the rockwell hardness - I thought Rockwell was something you Yanks were covering up about aliens .
Same thing goes for final drive chains as well in my book. (In fact I've snapped maybe half a dozen final drive chains and they've never broken at the link).79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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TheCafeKid
Dunno for sure, but arent the GS motors non interference anyway? Or maybe its only the 8v's? Eitherway, im not condoning it either, just thought of that point when someone said bent valves.
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