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1981 gs1100 starter clutch my newest problem again.
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sean doan
1981 gs1100 starter clutch my newest problem again.
well i thought i had it fixed but i rode it for about a hour today in the cold snowy condtions. and when i got back my starter clutch wasnt working again. It spins on the crank the whole assembley. i think maybe my cranks taper might be worn down or something. what can i do to fix this. putting a new crank in and spending alot of money are out of the question. i was thinking of maybe putting jb weld around the crank and pressing it back on there. or i thinking about maybe tack welding a couple spots on the fly wheel to the crank. any other options i really dont wanna weld it but if i did i would make sure not to heat it up to much. and i do know then it would be on there for good.Tags: None
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dirtyfingers
Make sure the taper is as smooth as possible, galling will make for a poor fit. Also make sure to clean both very well with a strong solvent, like brake kleen. Use "green" Loctite and use an air impact to drive in the bolt. Let it set for a day or two and try it before you do something drastic like welding it on.
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Do NOT use JB Weld or do any welding! Remove the rotor & starter clutch assembly & clean the inside of the rotor VERY well! Also clean the crank taper that it goes on. I am talking about cleaning the parts with Brakleen like 3 or 4 times! Let them dry & then put GREEN Loctite bearing retainer on the crank taper where the assembly comes in contact with the taper. Install the rotor & starter clutch assembly onto the crank & tighten the nut with a 1/2 inch drive AIR impact. Let it sit OVERNIGHT & then finish assembly of a new gasket & the cover. You will not have this problem again! Ray.
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sean doan
well it is kinda gulled up and i put it on like that cause i was scared to take more matrial off and no i think i only torqed it to 70lbs i was trying to find the torq spec and for some reason i ended up doing that number. i think i will try cleaning it up loctiting it and torqing it down to 120lbs. have any of you heard of this problem or seen it?
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sean doan
man ray you make me feel very confident about this issue the gulling i have on the crank how would you recomend taking the gulling out.
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Originally posted by rapidray View PostJust use a GOOD sharp FINE flat file to clean up the taper on the crank & put it together the way I recommended. Ray.1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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sean doan
thanks for the info have any of you had this problem or seen it before. is the loctite a common thing to use for these
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if the crank taper or/and the rotor taper is damaged...
to big or to small depending on the part we are talking about....
there is nothing you can do short of welding the nut to the crank and the rotor to the nut ect..
this is temporary and i have seen quite a few cranks snapped off at the main bearing on these small left sides(80-82 1100E)(82-83 kats).
these parts change sizes and become damaged from the rotor spinning on the crankshaft.
one more thing..
when these parts change sizes, sometimes when you tighten the crank nut it pushed the whole assembly back to far on the crank and the starter clutch gear tries to stay ingaged(direct drive).
FYI
i use red loctite on all assemblies/crank taper/starter clutch bolts ect..
carb clean/laquer thinner all tapered areas!!!clean dry/clean/dry.
small left sides are evil if you ride wrong and ride hard!!!
there is a reason why suzuki increased the taper size by 4mm in 1983.
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sean doan
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sean doan
ill probaly go with the file then ill probaly take it apart and look at it toomorow. i dont have a inpact at the moment i think there torq spec is like 120 does that sound about right.
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