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    Spark Plug socket threads

    Hi all. I've recently completed adjusting the valve clearances and now putting the spark plugs back in I noticed that #3 didn't glide in like the others, as it should. In fact it goes in kind of hard. Like the plug isn't properly aligned to the hole. So, of course I don't want to force it and risk hurting the threads. I've probably pushed it farther than I should have already. I'm terribly afraid of messing up the threads or doing something that will ruin the seal and compression for that cylinder. I'm not seeing any metal shavings or anything in the threads to mess things up.

    Does anyone have any ideas I should try? Any help would be appreciated!

    Thanks, Mike

    #2
    You can get a spark plug hole chaser - 14mm x 1.25 pitch. Another thing is to try the proper tap - coat it with heavy grease and remove it every few turns to clean off any chips.

    Good luck.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Thanks, I forgot about using a chaser. I think that might be a good way to go.

      Comment


        #4
        I always use anti-seize paste when installing plugs in aluminum heads. I began after a plug came out with aluminum in the threads. It had to be helicoiled.

        Also, use a torque wrench -- a spark plug shouldn't be super-tight.

        Comment


          #5
          dammit trump are you following me everywhere?

          I don't typically use an anti-sieze compounds...I just properly tighten them. Spark plugs only have to be so tight as to crush their washers...some as little as 8lbs. If I don't know the proper setting I seat them at 10lbs, or I turn them til they lock then tighten about 1/16 of a turn.

          It's not sane how many bikes are brought to me for standard service where before a gorilla has obviously installed the sparkplugs and oil drain plug.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post

            It's not sane how many bikes are brought to me for standard service where before a gorilla has obviously installed the sparkplugs and oil drain plug.

            so you've met my gf's cousin then? I always have to tell him to not "He Man" every bolt and nut on. I bought him a torque wrench but he doesn't know how much anything should be torqued on and refuses to look anything up so he doesn't use it! lol pretty much he's good for taking stuff apart and moral support. that's about it!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
              dammit trump are you following me everywhere?
              snip
              It's not sane how many bikes are brought to me for standard service where before a gorilla has obviously installed the sparkplugs and oil drain plug.
              I've been lurking here a while since I got a 1982 GS1100E. Not exactly following YOU, Mak, but watching for good GS info. And at least I know someone here with good info.

              I am a fan of anti-seize. I believe you get more accurate torque readings with it (or other lubricant), with the side benefit of corrosion protection. Reasonable minds may differ...

              Comment


                #8
                Well I don't buy dedicated compounds is what I mean...I never put the plugs in on dry threads. That's just not civilized.

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