GS1100GL Rear Brakes

[Kawickrice]

Hey Guys
I have a 1983 GS1100GL that the rear brakes will not work. I was looking for a manual in the downloads section and can not seem to find my model. My question is which model has the same setup as mine, and is in the downloads section. The rear brake is a disk setup.

Thanks

[Larry D]

BassCliff (BikeCliff) may have the manual you seek on his site.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

[Nessism]

The rear brake system is almost identical on all the different GS bikes. The 850 manual would be a good place to start.

Standard procedure is to remove all the parts and do a full system tear down. It’s easier than it sounds.

The master cylinder comes apart easily after you remove the circlip holding the piston inside. Clean out the master really well and inspect the metal bore using a flashlight – if the metal is pitted from corrosion it’s junk, otherwise you can install a rebuild kit and use the master again. I strongly recommend using factory brake parts – I had a bad experience using K&L brake system parts.

For the rear caliper, use compressed air to force the pistons out. Clean everything really well and look for pitting on the pistons; replace as necessary using factory parts – not aftermarket.

The old rubber brake line should go in the trash; replace with a new factory line or get a stainless/Teflon replacement line – I like to build my own using Earl’s parts.

Hope this helps and good luck.

[Kawickrice]

I tried that site and it does not have my model. Would a different model have my brake setup?

[Kawickrice]

The rear brake system is almost identical on all the different GS bikes. The 850 manual would be a good place to start.

Standard procedure is to remove all the parts and do a full system tear down. It’s easier than it sounds.

The master cylinder comes apart easily after you remove the circlip holding the piston inside. Clean out the master really well and inspect the metal bore using a flashlight – if the metal is pitted from corrosion it’s junk, otherwise you can install a rebuild kit and use the master again. I strongly recommend using factory brake parts – I had a bad experience using K&L brake system parts.

For the rear caliper, use compressed air to force the pistons out. Clean everything really well and look for pitting on the pistons; replace as necessary using factory parts – not aftermarket.

The old rubber brake line should go in the trash; replace with a new factory line or get a stainless/Teflon replacement line – I like to build my own using Earl’s parts.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Thanks for the info. Any recommendations for suppliers who support this site.

[Kawickrice]

Is there a way to check each component before disassembly? Can I crack the line going to the caliper to see if the master cylinder is good? The reason I ask is there seems to be a little fluid on the rear rotor that has dripped down to the tire. I would like to isolate the problem then plan the attack.

[Nessism]

Brake system parts are available from any of the OE parts source: flatoutmotorcycles.com, bikebandit.com, motogrid.com, etc, or a dealer.

Fluid leakage at the rear caliper almost certainly means that at least one of the rear pistons is pitted due to corrosion. You could also have corrosion in the master cylinder, although it may not be bad enough to cause leakage…yet. A full system tear down is the only way to truly know what needs to be addressed. Due to the cost, I suggest a tear down before ordering parts – putting a master cylinder kit in a master with a pitted bore is a waste of money, and ordering rear caliper pistons is likewise a waste if the pistons are not pitted.

If money is no object, order new caliper pistons, seals, brake line, and a master cylinder kit (hoping the metal is in good shape). Worse case, you will have to find a new/used master cylinder which can take your new kit.